Stuck Knock Sensor
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Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 57
Likes: 10
From: Massachusetts
Stuck Knock Sensor
Hi all, I'm replacing the knock sensors in my 1995 LT1 and one of them is stuck. The inside part with the nut broke off from the outside of the sensor and now spins when I turn it. I've tried using some channel pliers, but it's tough to get leverage in the confined space. I also read that people use chisels, but I'm not exactly sure how to use them (either use them to hit in the tab things so the center grabs the outside again or chisel the outside in hopes that the threads loosen). Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions for getting it out? Thanks
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 57
Likes: 10
From: Massachusetts
Never mind, I finally got it out!!!! I ended up really roughing up the outside of the sensor with a hammer and chisel, then I was able to grip the outside with the channel wrench and somehow got some leverage.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,694
Likes: 728
From: Stay dangerous my friends
Yeah, those sensors are very delicate, and don't belong in an NPT port with coolant behind it. They are also too close to the pan rail, so if you have an aftermarket pan, it needs to be notched. I believe someone like ITC Billet makes an adapter that bolts on the pan rail, you can install a plug in the coolant hole, and you can use the LS2/3/7 sensors that are much better, but not sure how those work with the OEM ECU, I've done that with the Holley ECU. I get it that the water transmits the sound better than the steel, but those L98/LT1 knock sensor replacements are crap, the wrenching flat is thin metal and it's crimped to the threaded portion, so it's impossible to tighten it properly even. OEM ones may have been a little better.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 57
Likes: 10
From: Massachusetts
Yeah, those sensors are very delicate, and don't belong in an NPT port with coolant behind it. They are also too close to the pan rail, so if you have an aftermarket pan, it needs to be notched. I believe someone like ITC Billet makes an adapter that bolts on the pan rail, you can install a plug in the coolant hole, and you can use the LS2/3/7 sensors that are much better, but not sure how those work with the OEM ECU, I've done that with the Holley ECU. I get it that the water transmits the sound better than the steel, but those L98/LT1 knock sensor replacements are crap, the wrenching flat is thin metal and it's crimped to the threaded portion, so it's impossible to tighten it properly even. OEM ones may have been a little better.
