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I will be driving along and the engine will cut out and come right back in a split second. When that happens the service engine flashes, the security light flashes, the service ASR light comes on and stays on, and the message "SYS" flashes a couple times next to the speedo. This problem usually starts after about 15 minutes of driving. If you feather the gas pedal, it may not happen at all. This started about 3 months ago. I took it to the dealer and they replaced a bad ecm. Within 48 hours the same thing happened. Back to dealer, they checked alternator, said it was OK. They said my custom chip locked them out, so they couldn't help me. I went to 2 hours aways to Strope's in PA. They replaced another bad ECM, and added a shift kit, AFPR and dyno tune. The car ran awesome for 1 week. I was going about 35, jumped on it, and the engine flashes in and out, service engine light, security light, and SYS all flash. Service ASR stays on. After feathering the gas until I was almost home, I floored it. It felt like I hit a brick wall, when the engine cut out. Must of been the Brakes coming on. The next day it was fine no lights, until after about 15 minutes of driving, then all the same symptoms. I needed transportation so I kept driving. Eventually the speedo stayed at 0 mph and I think the odometer quit moving. Once the Stereo, went to full volume for a split second, and then back to normal. The next day I had a friend drive it 2 hours back to Strope's in PA. I told him to feather the gas pedal, and the car was fine the whole trip, not one light.
So far no word from Strope Speed Shop, except that the ECM is OK. They said I don't want them to tear the whole car apart looking for some little glich. I said hell yes, I do.
Sounds like an intermittent connection from the battery to the electrical system. I would check the tightness and cleanliness of the cable lugs of the fusible links (8 of them) under the battery jump post next to the battery. I would check the tightness and cleanliness of the battery ground connection on the frame on the right side of the battery. I would check the same conditions for the ground on the LH side of the engine below the valve cover.
I would check your engine mounts, if one is broken the engine is moving and fatigueing the ground wire on the rear of the engine (LH valve cover) and when you get on it, it disconnects the ground.
Check for a poor connection between the battery cables and their battery lugs. You cannot visually see a broken connection here and they should be tested electrically. With all the electrical devices you can turn on, measure the voltage drop between the lug and the cable wire on both cables. It should be very small (under 0.1 volts) and should not vary when you push and pull on the cable.
I had a similar problem. Mine would cut out under full throttle acceleration and then run fine when I let off the gas. After replacing several items (fuel pump) I found the 12 volt wire to the coil was not connected tightly and it would pull away from the coil under hard acceleration.
I have heard mice will do that to your electrical system if you store your car in the winter. but :iagree: , could be just an electrical short, intermitent problem.
If you can not read codes because of an after market chip I would put a stock chip in the vehicle for diagnosis even if I had to buy one from the dealer. I would also contact Ed Wright to verify that using his chip alters the way you retrieve trouble codes. If you connect a paper clip between A and G of your diagnostic port your telling me you cannot retrieve codes from your speedometer display.
The dealer told me their scanner was locked out. Whatever that means. When I told that to the guys at Strope, they seemed to act if that was normal, but they said it would not be a problem for them - because they are used to dealing with cars with Ed Wright chips.