Update:
Please forgive me, but I'm going to be detailed here with the hope this will help someone else in the future with similar problems. I spoke to Technicians at BBB industries and Powermaster about my alternator problems. Both agreed with what the old mechanic said about rewiring. They recommend this rewiring even without problems because the electrical system works better. The CS144 is better than the CS130, but I have two CS130 alternators. One is a back-up and the other I just got back as warranty exchange unit. I decided to try rewiring things to see if I can prevent the alternator regulators from burning out, because I feel like I have an electrical issue here and it's not necessarily my CS130 alternator causing the problem.

I added a 4 guage wire that runs from the negative battery post directly to the back of the alternator using the bolt in the rear back brace that goes to the exhaust manifold. The alternator is grounded internally directly to the external case. I then ran a second ground wire from the same spot on the alternator to the frame just behind the radiator. I then removed the original red alternator charge wire and taped off the connector. I then ran a 6 guage wire from the alternator battery stud directly to the positive post on the battery with a 120 AMP ANL fuse in the middle. I ordered a new power distribution block, wire bushed all of the connections on it, put a thin film of carbon based electrically conductive grease on all of the connectors and reassemble it. I found some existing ground wires, one of which was the silver stranded wire going to the engine. I unbolted them from the frame. I really don't like how Chevrolet did their grounds. They bolt them directly to the painted frame of the car. They ground the wire end by placing a star washer between the connector and the frame. The star points dig into the frame and make contact with the bare metal under the paint. All the grounds I worked on were done the same way. After 39 years the connections looked barely there after removing the star washers. The metal looked oxidized where the star met the frame. I wanted a better connection, so I took the paint off down to bare metal. I removed the star washers and placed carbon based electrically conductive grease on the frame and the connector to make there was a good connection and to keep water out. I then put die electric grease around the edges of the connector to keep moisture out. I'm tired of messing with alternators, so I also installed a Balmer APM-12 voltage protection device, which protects the alternator from voltage spikes.

My alternator has gotten extremely hot in the past to where you can't touch it. I believe this reduces its life. I think the rear brace to the exhaust manifold inadvertently acts as a heat sink and heats up the alternator. I did some research on materials, and fiber washers and stainless-steel bolts are not good conductors of heat. I placed fiber washers on each side of the rear alternator brace where it bolts up to the alternator to prevent the metal contact from transferring heat. I tried to do the same thing on the brace bolt to the exhaust manifold, but I could only place one fiber washer where the nut goes on. I couldn't place it on the back of the brace at the manifold because it throws off the brace alignment. I replaced the bolt holding the brace onto the back of the alternator with a stainless-steel bolt. I also added a thin film off 600-degree gasket maker anywhere the metal brace touched metal and on the fiber washers to reduce heat transfer. I can now touch the alternator after the car has run for a while. It's still warm, but I can keep my hand on it for a minute, where I used to pull my hand away from it immediately. I'm hoping this extends the life of my alternators.

I started the car and everything seemed fine. I tested the electronics and found out the heater blower motor was no longer working. I reconnected the old alternator charge wire and left my new wire going directly to the battery connected. I started the car and now my heater blower motor is working again. I used a continuity checker when I had the power distribution block apart, and I traced the original alternator charge wire to the power distribution block. My service manual electrical schematic shows the heater blower motor connecting to fusible link K by the starter solenoid, so the original alternator charge wire must split off somewhere. Even so, I would think the heater blower motor would have still worked even though I disconnected it from the alternator because I left the opposite end connected to the power distribution block. I traced the red wire on my alternator electrical plug on the side of the alternator, which I believe is the exciter wire for the alternator, to the power distribution block.

I've got everything working and I start driving the car around the block to test it. The service engine soon light comes on halfway around the block and I'm completely surprised by it. This is where things get a little bizarre for me. I check the codes and it's the same code 33 and 53 again. I disconnect the original alternator charge wire and reset and clear the codes. I start the engine, and the service engine soon light comes on immediately. The engine idle is erratic and oscillating up and down and the car almost dies. I check the engine codes and code 33 is present again without the 53. Having the original alternator charge cable disconnected prevented the code 53 (alternator voltage spike above 17 volts). I start focusing on code 33 (MAF voltage high). I replaced the MAF sensor about a year and a half ago with a Spectra. I go to unplug the MAF sensor to see how the engine idles. The screw on the two worm clamps holding the MAF ducting on both ends of the MAF were both on top when I replaced the MAF sensor, but when I looked at the clamp closest to the air intake manifold it was cocked off to the side. I look closer at it, and the clamp was completely loose almost like it had been purposely unscrewed. I tighten the clamp and drive the car around the block. No more codes. The idle is a little rough at idle, but the engine corrects it. I removed the battery cables on and off while working on the system, so maybe the car is relearning the idle.

This is my theory:
I had my car in a local shop a couple of months ago to have my heater core replaced. They either purposely unscrewed the clamp hoping to get additional work from me or the clamp came loose on its own, which I've never had happen before. This allowed the engine to suck in big gulps of air at times from in between the duct connection gaps on the MAF sensor, which was between the MAF sensor and the intake manifold after the MAF has already read the incoming air flow. This created a voltage surge in my MAF sensor, which somehow placed a heavy demand on the alternator through the original alternator charge wire, which burned out my alternator regulators.

I'm going to replace the two duct clamps on my MAF sensor with nice heavy-duty ones. I spoke with the Technician at Powermaster again, and he suggested that I place the original charge wire on the alternator stud directly on the positive battery post to allow my heater blower to work. He said this set up keeps the alternator isolated from the electronics in my old car, which should prevent electrical issues from burning out the regulators in my alternators. I asked him if he's had others do this successfully in the past and he said yes. The battery serves as a buffer zone for the alternator. He said they view the battery as a bucket of electricity. The alternator fills it, and the car electronics pull from it. This is the "old school" way of wiring things according to various internet forums and almost all old mechanics say its better. In hindsight, I would have probably figured out the problem sooner if I would have focused on the first code to show up in the computer, which was code 33. I don't regret the rewiring because I think it's going to prevent future issues as the car continues to age. I plan to make these changes over the next couple of weeks and I'll let you know how things go. I'll try and post some pictures as well. I'm still in the dark on where the original red BAT cable coming off the back of the alternator goes to. Maybe one you've you can share your knowledge on this based off your experiences. I'm also still not sure how the MAF would create an over voltage situation with an air leak. I would think protections would be in place to prevent this from happening.

 

Sounds like a pretty comprehensive plan to keep that CS130 alive. Sure would have been nice if Chevrolet had had the same degree of concern, eh?

On my car the alternator charge wire does go straight to the jump buss or whatever that thing behind the battery is called. The bucket school of thought is intriguing, though. I don't know enough about it all to have my own opinion but I like that there's practical thought (preserve the electrical devices) behind it.

 

Thank you for your comments ThickLizzyVetteswerv. I'm thinking of pulling my original alternator charge wire out of the conduit when I connect it directly to the battery just to confirm it doesn't split off somewhere. Maybe someone has done some custom work on it in the past.

 

I'm so tired of the lack of good service and quality in the automotive industry. I'm sure everyone has had their own experiences. I took the new warranty CS130 alternator that I just got back from Rock Auto to be tested at O'rielly's, just to make sure it's good. They enter my vehicle information and test it. They tell me it failed the PFLS and frequency test even though it's a brand-new alternator. There was a printout in the new alternator box saying the alternator tested good at the factory. I have them remove the electrical connection and reseat it in case it's not making good contact. It failed again. I asked them details on why it failed, and they can't tell me anything other than that's what the machine says. I don't want to send the BBB Industries alternator back to Rock Auto in exchange for another unit because they charge me freight, so I decide to take it to Auto Zone to be tested. Identical results. I notice their alternator test machine is similar to the one at O'reilly's. Things just don't feel right to me, so I take it to a local starter/alternator rebuild shop and ask them to test it. They come back and tell me its operating perfectly. I had O'reily's test the WAI alternator before I installed it, and it tested good. The other two alternators that I took off my car after the code 53 that I had tested at O'rielly's failed with the same PFLS and frequency test. One of those I had tested a second time at another custom starter/rebuild shop, and they confirmed it was bad. They said the regulator/diodes were shot. I feel like the custom starter/alternator shops are better for testing accuracy, unfortunately they're much further away from my house where O'reilly's and Auto Zone are a couple of blocks away. Can't anything be easy in life?

 

I’ve had my 87 over 30 years. I know it’s on at least #6 alternator. Only buy lifetime CS130!
Pepboys is way behind the 8 ball with me. I’ve got 4 out of them
Before I replaced the first one I talked with a local auto electric shop “we can put 160amp truck parts in it that will help, the big problem is no engine driven fan, the heat kills them”. I’ve found over time as the car sits a lot battery charger is your friend. Alternator is not a battery charger!

 

This is an update for everyone. I was never able to get this problem resolved. I kept having various problems with this car and it became a money pit and took up too much of my time. I loved the way it drove and looked, but there was always something wrong with it and I couldn't drive it most of the time. I decided to cut my loses and I sold it. I'm planning to purchase a C6 or C7 in its place.