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I just ordered a Motive pressure bleeder for my 95. I checked the manual for recommended PSI setting and it said 20-25 PSI. This seems a little high as the videos that Motive has on there site recommends 12-15 PSI. So I am looking for advice from members who have used this unit on their C4.
I just ordered a Motive pressure bleeder for my 95. I checked the manual for recommended PSI setting and it said 20-25 PSI. This seems a little high as the videos that Motive has on there site recommends 12-15 PSI. So I am looking for advice from members who have used this unit on their C4.
Thank You
Hawkeye56
I use mine at 20 psi. It really doesn't make that much difference.
2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C8 Stingray of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Ive had my Motive bleeder for a while now and Ive used it many times but honestly Ive never considered pressure when using it. I merely pump it up a few times and make sure there's flow at the caliper.
Ive had my Motive bleeder for a while now and Ive used it many times but honestly Ive never considered pressure when using it. I merely pump it up a few times and make sure there's flow at the caliper.
Regardless of whether you use one of these type bleeders, or just do it the old fashioned way, you should always use a rubber mallet to whack the caliper a couple times during the bleeding process. This will dislodge any little air bubbles clinging to a wall in the caliper. I have been doing this since I started bleeding brakes over 50 years ago. Can't hurt and possibly can help and other than the mallet itself, doesn't cost anything.
Regardless of whether you use one of these type bleeders, or just do it the old fashioned way, you should always use a rubber mallet to whack the caliper a couple times during the bleeding process. This will dislodge any little air bubbles clinging to a wall in the caliper. I have been doing this since I started bleeding brakes over 50 years ago. Can't hurt and possibly can help and other than the mallet itself, doesn't cost anything.
Great idea, I will give it a try.
Thank You
Hawkeye56
I use 15 psi in my Motive. On my 92 I found that 15psi did not produce any flow at the rear calipers. I had to open the rear bleeder then use my foot to force the fluid out at the rear. About a 1, 2, 3, 4 count down, and the same to let the pedal up. Wait about 10 seconds for the next cycle.
One advantage to the Motive on a 92-95 is to bleed the "prime pipe" at the BPMV behind the driver seat. Attach a tube and open the valve. You'll be surprised how quickly and easialy it bleeds and how much dirty fluid is contained in that pipe.
I use 15 psi in my Motive. On my 92 I found that 15psi did not produce any flow at the rear calipers. I had to open the rear bleeder then use my foot to force the fluid out at the rear. About a 1, 2, 3, 4 count down, and the same to let the pedal up. Wait about 10 seconds for the next cycle.
One advantage to the Motive on a 92-95 is to bleed the "prime pipe" at the BPMV behind the driver seat. Attach a tube and open the valve. You'll be surprised how quickly and easialy it bleeds and how much dirty fluid is contained in that pipe.
Cheers
Thank you for the advice, I will check my manual on the BPMV.
Thank you
Hawkeye56
I am thinking about getting a motive and have a stupid question. Since the fluid is pumped into the master cylinder when you are done is the master cylinder full to the top? Do you have to turkey baster some out down to the full mark? Dan
I am thinking about getting a motive and have a stupid question. Since the fluid is pumped into the master cylinder when you are done is the master cylinder full to the top? Do you have to turkeyy baster some out down to the full mark? Dan
Very good question. Hopefully someone who owns one will answer this question for us.
I am thinking about getting a motive and have a stupid question. Since the fluid is pumped into the master cylinder when you are done is the master cylinder full to the top? Do you have to turkey baster some out down to the full mark? Dan
Prefill the reservoir about 1/2-3/4 way. Pre-bleed the Motive's hose with a couple of pumps then install the adapter. As long as there are no leaks, the air gap will remain.
One hickup can be if the adapter doesn't seal well to the reservoir, the air gap will be expelled and you'll have a fluid leak. When I begin to pump up the Motive, I watch the fluid level in the reservoir. If it begins to rise, there's a leak. If the level stays the same, there isn't.
Is it correct to assume that for older cars which have the two separate reservoirs (at different heights), that you must use the Motive on only one reservoir at a time and bleed only the fronts / rears depending on which reservoir you're sealed to? I'm about to take this on also, and want to check with those who have already done it on the older cars. Thanks -
Is it correct to assume that for older cars which have the two separate reservoirs (at different heights), that you must use the Motive on only one reservoir at a time and bleed only the fronts / rears depending on which reservoir you're sealed to?
Yes. You will want the 1101 Adapter which is a "universal 3 Inch round". The 1101 has chains that go under and around the bottom of the master cyl to the other side of the adapter. These adapters can be a little fussy to get to seal, try to keep the adapter 'flat' on top of the reservoir and tighten the two sides evenly. You'll get it. I put a wad of old towels under the master cyl to catch any a leak if it does occur while you're not watching.
You have to do front and rear separately like you surmised. Unless you have a 1986 which has a single reservoir. Cheers.
I am thinking about getting a motive and have a stupid question. Since the fluid is pumped into the master cylinder when you are done is the master cylinder full to the top? Do you have to turkey baster some out down to the full mark? Dan
I filled my master to the normal level before attaching the pressure bleeder. The air that at the top of the reservoir is trapped and stays at the top when you disconnect so the level stays almost the same.
I filled my master to the normal level before attaching the pressure bleeder. The air that at the top of the reservoir is trapped and stays at the top when you disconnect so the level stays almost the same.
This is great to know ahead of time to avoid a mistake.
Thank you
Hawkeye56
Is it a good idea to exercise the ABS during bleeding?
I don't know how you would do this without a Tech that can make it run. Maybe exercise it BEFORE flushing. I have talked (via email) from a man who rebuilds them and he says that no amount of flushing or exercising the ABS will clean out the screens or solenoids. There is just not enough flow. The exercising of the ABS with the Tech, he says, is to get out small air bubbles. Dan
2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C8 Stingray of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Im not sure about the ABS but what ive read you bleed the system as you would any other. Some have suggested activating the ABS on a gravel road, afterwards, to release a small amount of fluid "trapped inside" the ABS. Even thought I have a Motive bleeder Im going to gravity bleed my 96. Changing the shocks and rotors at the same time so I have the time to watch the master cylinder level. With all the snow and ice currently here in NC I shouldn't have to go far to activate the ABS.