When I got my '96, I saw right away that the sealed beam headlights were pathetic. So I replaced them with the European-style lights with H4 halogen bulbs. Been great for a long time. I recently decided I needed to upgrade to LED bulbs. Got the bulbs; they don't work right. They work in high beam only. The high beam indicator on the instrument panel is on, and I can pull on the high/low lever all day and they stay in high beams. This is obviously annoying to anyone driving towards me.

I talked to one bulb vendor and they told me I needed to add load resistors that run hot and need a big heat sink. Another vendor told me I needed some kind of Canbus adaptor or something, whatever that is. Has anyone experienced this and figured out what the fix is??

 

Check out this thread, it should answer your questions. There are a few different solutions to the issue but until you implement one of them just turn off your fog lights and the headlights should go back to working normally.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-solution.html

 

@LB66383 I'm experiencing symptoms identical to your.

My setup is from https://www.headlightexperts.com/ Ordered the lights December past >>> https://www.headlightexperts.com/h60...conversion-kit

Thought i'd be a wise guy and ordered the recommended "warning canceller capacitors" integral wit the LED bulb. Had hi/lo beams for the first few flicks and then "stuck" on low.

Contacted tech support, wanted to return product since i was stuck on low *and* as the joint where the lens meets reflector is not as wide as a Wagner Halogen sealed beam, so without someting to takew up the space, rattles loose in the bucket. I was told No Return on used parts and to order "resistors/decoders >>> https://www.headlightexperts.com/lig...stors-decoders.

Did a little research on our wonderful site, found threads of similar experience, causes for a variety of symptoms and suggestions to fix. Eyes being glazed over by disgust, after being told to order more, i forgot what i read.

As you can see in the attached picture of everything needed to fire up LED headlights from the experts, it's a lot of stuff to figure out how to fasten down in the limited space where ouor headights turn their beloved and spectacular 180' appearing and disappearing acts.

Tech support at Headlight Experts communicated in 3-5 word phrases with me and told me i could contact "Robert" to discuss my concerns. Which i have not done yet, but plan to do so, so that i have some idea of whatto exprct should i decide to try installing 10 pounds of parts in a 2 pound bag.

So, this isn't a lot of what you asked for, i've tried to make it entertaining. But since we have the same symptoms I'm sharing with you what experts told me will fix the problem.

Perhaps some very knowledgeable folks on the site will read your thread to help us better understand what can be done so our car's electrical system gives us hi/lo beams.

 

I purchased these a year ago for my '84 along with the HW Star LED lamps and everything works like stock.


I just zip tied the boxes inside the headlight frame in a spot that didn't interfere with the movement. They even supply the zip ties.

 

@typical boomer so you installed the resistors with bulbs and capacitors and this gives you hi/lo beams?

 

Yup they were literally plug and play. High and low beams work as they should and high beam indicator indicates correctly.

 

Looking at the pic you uploaded I'm assuming the yellow plug is the third connector for the bulb? The silver one has two plugs and the yellow fits next to it? If true the resistor pack you already have in the pic will probably work.

 

@typical boomer I appreciate your validating comments. In your case, how did the reflector/lens fit in the bucket with the clamping ring screws tightened ? In my case, when the clamping ring held by 4 screws is tightened to the bucket holding the reflector/lens, the reflector/lens is loose, rattles around because the joint formed by the reflector and the lens isn't as thick as the Wagner units.

 

In my case the HW Star lights fit perfectly. Maybe you can add a piece of thin vacuum tubing or other similar material to fill in the space?

 

Thanks again, for your reply. i have ingenuity, i'll figger sumpin' out.

 

Don’t know how LEDs work
the lamp housing makes a huge difference.
yesrs ago I upgraded to Ciebe lamps and upwatted bulbs 130/100w bulbs require relay to handle current
e-code lamps shine light down on the road where you can see. Don’t shine light up in oncoming drivers face, or bounce it off rain.
Here’s the question about LEDs, do they put the light in the correct pattern so the light shines like it was designed with a bulb? I’d want to see a comparison of down road light
I can say upwatt bulbs don’t last forever
Wiring upgrades, relays e-coded lamps and upwatted bulbs make it where you see things in time to drive around in instead of run over it at night.
Good info Daniel sterns lighting