When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I know somewhere around here there are some tips to installing spark plugs in an LT1. 2 of the plugs are a booger to get too. Could someone please remind me of those helpfull tips before I get started today?
I've changed my plugs twice and my advice is - if it is in your way, move it - also the passenger side is the worst so do it first, those rear 2 may require the spark plug socket and a wrench combo. and a worm engine is ok but not hot - cuz it will burn you :D use some kind of anti sieze for the install and don't force anything. oh yeah, first time give yourself about 2 or 3 hours. make it fun. change the oil and air filter while your at it. Wires are next but way more complicated. Good Luck :cheers:
I haven't found the spark plugs that hard to change. But when I did my rebuild I left the stock spark plug wire harnesses off (except for one). It's not as pretty, but the plug wires are now farther away from heat sources and I've got twice the room for my hands.
On the #8 plug use a spark plug socket and an open end wrench to remove/install.
I've used this methos and a 1/2" breaker bar attached to a plug socket. These seem to be the two best ways, although I've been told it is easier to access from beneath.
it would be much easier if we had an extra joint between the wrist and elbow.
And also, once you've done it a few times, you get a feel for the placement and angle of the spark plug holes so getting the blind ones started (#8, #7, #6 for me) is a lot easier. :reddevil
Get an assortment of extensions lengths, universal (swivel), and a plug socket that can be turned with a wrench before you start. GM could have made it a lot easier with just a change or two. Sid.
Someone on the forum clued me into a fuel line hose to put on the plugs for removal and replacement so you don't have to use the wrench and extensions for the entire length of the thread. This worked great on the #8 plug.
Note: the book says the plugs are good for 100k miles. My philosophy is, if ain't broke, don't fix it.
I just changed mine last weekend(Bosch +4's) and found that if you remove the center section of the wheelwell(the section right above the shock) Theres only 5 bolts and a couple of clips holding this piece on. You'll have a lot more room to work, especially on the drivers side. You'll be able to go in underneath the ABS and brake booster to get to the plugs. The passenger side is easier to except for #8 which is a real PITA no matter what. The socket and wrench is about the best way to do #8. Also, don't forget to put some dielectric grease inside the boots in case you have/need to change the plugs/wires at a later time.
Later Zane
Spark plugs are relatively easy. to change. I find it easiest to pull the front tires and go in through the wheel wells with a long extension. I use a 3/8" X 24" extension along with a 3/8" universal for most of the plugs, including the one behind the brake booster on the drivers side.
:seeya Purp
I don't remove nothin'. I just smear some warpaint on my face, remove long sleeves, make sure anyone offended by sailor-class profanity is well out of earshot, and have at it. :smash:
:chevy
About 2 hours, three beers, 3 - 4 good wrist and forearm nicks and scrapes later and I'm all done and a happy camper :hurray:
Spark plugs are relatively easy. to change. I find it easiest to pull the front tires and go in through the wheel wells with a long extension. I use a 3/8" X 24" extension along with a 3/8" universal for most of the plugs, including the one behind the brake booster on the drivers side.
:seeya Purp