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pulling engine for rod knock and leak purposes. I got 4/6 of the bolts connecting the transmission to the engine out (I believe there’s 6). The final two are the lower ones on the passenger side. I have a few feet worth of extensions, and a set of swivel sockets. I’ve read other forum posts to see how exactly to get to the bolts and most say to go over the back of the transmission. Or, remove the transmission with the engine. Considering my exhaust bolts are rusted solid and not going anywhere (blocking access to the trans), I’ll stick to separating the transmission. I can go over the trans, but putting force behind so many (3-4) extensions on bolts that are WAYY tighter than the other 4 feels impossible. Is this just a skill issue? Should I work out more? lol.
also, the top bolt of the 2 is easily visible from the top, and I can get a wrench on it but it’s the same issue. Won’t turn for my life. The wrench doesn’t stand straight up as it hits the firewall. It is also a 15mm where the others are 9/16, I saw no mention of that anywhere else? I’m going to get a wrench that has the slight angle on the bottom and probably solve that one easy.
My main question is how EXACTLY did anyone else handle the bottom bolt on the passenger side? My guess is just muscle…
Has any separation occurred yet? I’m wondering if the motor and trans are starting to pull apart and are putting the bolts in a bind. If so it may be worth it to reinstall one on the far driver side.
Has any separation occurred yet? I’m wondering if the motor and trans are starting to pull apart and are putting the bolts in a bind. If so it may be worth it to reinstall one on the far driver side.
no, I thought about that and put the one in the top driver side back, and didn’t fully remove the one on the bottom driver side either. I had a suspicion that maybe the bracket that holds the exhaust up that they’re connected to may be pulling on them though. But the exhaust is still connected so I don’t know why it would do that
You can use an impact wrench with a swivel to loosen that bolt
I tried an impact on a different bolt before and it didn’t do much but worry me with rounding it off. Although, I broke it loose today with no problem (and a couple weeks) so I’ll try again
I tried an impact on a different bolt before and it didn’t do much but worry me with rounding it off. Although, I broke it loose today with no problem (and a couple weeks) so I’ll try again
Your answer is in your first post. You say one head is a 15 mm. Some Bubba has torqued in a metric bolt and has fkd up all the threads. If anyone has worked on stainless bolts with galled threads, they know that a three foot swing arm is not going to budge it. If you can get a clear shot, grab a fire socket and burn it off.
Your answer is in your first post. You say one head is a 15 mm. Some Bubba has torqued in a metric bolt and has fkd up all the threads. If anyone has worked on stainless bolts with galled threads, they know that a three foot swing arm is not going to budge it. If you can get a clear shot, grab a fire socket and burn it off.
got it off. Turns out that removing the bolts from the exhaust manifold so early was not a good idea and was putting pressure on the bolt(rookie move).At least I think- putting two back on each side let me turn the bolt very slowly with all my body weight and more on a wrench. Certainly someone put the wrong bolt in but to my knowledge no one should have touched that stuff ever… makes me worried about the final bolt that even the impact can’t break loose :v Normal bolt on left and the 15mm on right. Definitely doesn’t belong there.
I had to use enough extensions that ran to the end of the tail-shaft where i could get the socket wrench enough room that i could add and extension to it but my exhaust was off the vehicle