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A year ago, I removed the driveshaft to install new u-joints. GM states in the FSM to mark the driveshaft-to-end yoke relationship so that it could be put back exactly the same way.
I just did a 1300-mile trip and I'm getting pretty awful vibrations between 70 and 80 MPHs. It actually gets worse if I left off the gas AND if I push in the clutch at those speeds. It appears the driveshaft is the culprit...maybe I installed it 180* off the way GM had it.
Since I have to remove it, would it be beneficial to have a driveshaft shop inspect and balance it just to ensure all is good and maybe gain some more smoothness? Cost would be $100.
A year ago, I removed the driveshaft to install new u-joints. GM states in the FSM to mark the driveshaft-to-end yoke relationship so that it could be put back exactly the same way.
I just did a 1300-mile trip and I'm getting pretty awful vibrations between 70 and 80 MPHs. It actually gets worse if I left off the gas AND if I push in the clutch at those speeds. It appears the driveshaft is the culprit...maybe I installed it 180* off the way GM had it.
Since I have to remove it, would it be beneficial to have a driveshaft shop inspect and balance it just to ensure all is good and maybe gain some more smoothness? Cost would be $100.
Thanks,
Ric
Is the weight still fixed on the drive-shaft? You could maybe use some larger radiator hose clamps and tweaking their position on the drive-shaft to see if you can make worse or better. I'm assuming u-joints are fresh and properly installed? 2 clamps should work I'd think and you just mark the diameter of the drive-shaft at 90°. The 100$ is a bit more than I'm accustomed to paying but that might be a going rate these days. If you've easy access to lifting it the clamps is just a lot of time involved for positioning.
Is the weight still fixed on the drive-shaft? You could maybe use some larger radiator hose clamps and tweaking their position on the drive-shaft to see if you can make worse or better. I'm assuming u-joints are fresh and properly installed? 2 clamps should work I'd think and you just mark the diameter of the drive-shaft at 90°. The 100$ is a bit more than I'm accustomed to paying but that might be a going rate these days. If you've easy access to lifting it the clamps is just a lot of time involved for positioning.
All the U-joints, including half-shafts are fresh...less than 5K miles if not less. They are installed correctly as well. As for the weight, I'll have to get down there and see. It's either the weight fell off or installed the DS 180* off.
Since you are here...why did GM specify marking the position of the DS...did they do a quick in-car balancing job or some other odd procedure?
All the U-joints, including half-shafts are fresh...less than 5K miles if not less. They are installed correctly as well. As for the weight, I'll have to get down there and see. It's either the weight fell off or installed the DS 180* off.
Since you are here...why did GM specify marking the position of the DS...did they do a quick in-car balancing job or some other odd procedure?
Slip-yoke, drive-shaft and u-joints assembly was balanced by Spicer/Dana and delivered to BG. The pinion flange is also a separately balanced component. They just mention removing and assembling back to what it was before to eliminate potential issues.
Slip-yoke, drive-shaft and u-joints assembly was balanced by Spicer/Dana and delivered to BG. The pinion flange is also a separately balanced component. They just mention removing and assembling back to what it was before to eliminate potential issues.