When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Has anyone deleted their power steering? Does it make steering heavy or difficult?
Looking to simplify my car any and all ways possible, but I am planning on running wider tires (255 tread width in front), and possibly the Z51 quick ratio steering rack, so those might make it less comfortable.
Curious if this is common, and how it will change the steering feel.
"Advice requested". My immediate response: Terrible idea.
What do the race car guys do? (The Challenge cars had stock power steering.) Perhaps there is a non power assisted steering gear available that can be adapted to the C4, but I don't know why one would want to. The C4 power steering system is relatively trouble-free and seldom requires attention other than hose renewal every 25-30 years or so.
The early cars have something in the steering column that breaks and causes a bunch of steering play in the wheel. (WVZR knows more about this issue than I do.) Removing the power assist will greatly increase the forces through the steering column possibly breaking something in the column.
My 1984 power steering pump needs a bit to "wake up" when I first start the car after a long time of sitting. When that pump is dead, it is HARD to steer the car. Maybe I have a weak frame but man you really gotta put some muscle into that steering wheel to get it to turn properly when the car is moving slow.
Like IHBD said: terrible idea. And he is a pretty smart guy so I'd trust his judgment on most issues.
What is the exact reason you are trying to do this? Weight reduction for a drag strip is the only thought that comes to mind.
My 1984 power steering pump needs a bit to "wake up" when I first start the car after a long time of sitting. When that pump is dead, it is HARD to steer the car. Maybe I have a weak frame but man you really gotta put some muscle into that steering wheel to get it to turn properly when the car is moving slow.
Like IHBD said: terrible idea. And he is a pretty smart guy so I'd trust his judgment on most issues.
What is the exact reason you are trying to do this? Weight reduction for a drag strip is the only thought that comes to mind.
Mostly to reduce drag on the engine, I'm going to be using this almost solely as a track car. Collateral benefits would be reduced weight and fewer potential points of failure. But based on what I'm hearing so far, probably better to keep it.
A consideration for a track car is driver fatigue. Anything that wears down the driver over the duration of the event is detrimental to performance and lap times. Adding force needed to turn the steering wheel is not conducive to keeping the driver comfortable and performing at his top potential.
Many years ago an acquaintance of mine was conducting interviews of NASCAR chiefs and people during research for his MBe degree. He was in a NASCAR shop, his host had stepped away for other business and my friend looked at a race car set up on the chassis grid with dial indicators set up to measure bump-steer. He manipulated the suspension through its full travel, and the indicaton was very low. When his host came back, my friend said "That is really good on bump steer. Only xxx." The host's response was "We'll get it better than that. Bump steer wears them out [the drivers]." I've never forgotten that. Little things affect driver performance.
Run no more than about 2-3 degrees of caster, zero toe, and it will make things a lot easier. You need a loop in the circuit between the left and right steer lines.
Here's one post abut a manual rack that I remembered
Best move would be to convert to an electric PS pump. Plenty of room on the front frame rail where the PS reservoir is currently. Just pop a used Volvo unit there, wire it up to a switch and move on with life. Best thing about doing it on a switch is you can turn it on in the pits without the engine running and moving it around is an easier task. Lots of drag race guys do this. I will be doing that in the future to my car.
Why? Can't you just short-circuit the existing PS rack by connecting the inlet directly to the outlet?
The ratios of steering wheel to rack change drastically between manual and power racks. This is what he is talking about. The steering effort is massive when doing low speed stuff.
Best move would be to convert to an electric PS pump. Plenty of room on the front frame rail where the PS reservoir is currently. Just pop a used Volvo unit there, wire it up to a switch and move on with life. Best thing about doing it on a switch is you can turn it on in the pits without the engine running and moving it around is an easier task. Lots of drag race guys do this. I will be doing that in the future to my car.
If I'm not getting rid of the power steering, I don't think it's worth switching to an electric pump. I have enough mods on my to-do list to last the rest of my life.
@ChumpVette has a good point, there's a skinny torsion sensing bar inside the power steering servo that flexes as you turn the steering wheel. This flex is what ports power steering fluid under pressure to turn left or right. You would really feel that flex turning the colunm back and forth with some more effort, with a PS rack that's disconnected, so it wouldn't feel good at all. As such, I was simply stating how to do it, not that you should. I've done the opposite, installed a Woodward road racing rack that's a quick ratio (10:1 or so) with much more assist than OEM.
Best move would be to convert to an electric PS pump. Plenty of room on the front frame rail where the PS reservoir is currently. Just pop a used Volvo unit there, wire it up to a switch and move on with life. Best thing about doing it on a switch is you can turn it on in the pits without the engine running and moving it around is an easier task. Lots of drag race guys do this. I will be doing that in the future to my car.
I just did this on my Autocross Car (1990). The only reason I did it was because the Stock Pump is right in the way of any Stiffener Bar between the upper A-Arms. I wanted a Stiffener, so I eliminated the PS Pump. The Volvo Pump fit in the left Headlight cavity. A couple of Hydraulic lines snaked through the frame, and it almost looks like it came from the factory.
I just did this on my Autocross Car (1990). The only reason I did it was because the Stock Pump is right in the way of any Stiffener Bar between the upper A-Arms. I wanted a Stiffener, so I eliminated the PS Pump. The Volvo Pump fit in the left Headlight cavity. A couple of Hydraulic lines snaked through the frame, and it almost looks like it came from the factory.
Bonus is a little bit of freed up horsepower too. Looking like this is a worthwhile mod for every race car. I think for a daily it would be cool too. How much was your Volvo pump? If you don't mind me asking.
Won't the energy required by the electric pump now be supplied by the alternator? Plus there are inefficiencies with the conversion of mechanical to electrical and back to mechanical energy, so isn't it a net increase in "horsepower" required to turn the front wheels?
EDIT: thinking about this further, there are probably losses from constantly circulating fluid by the mechanical pump, even when the wheels aren't being turned. These losses are mostly heat generated by pumping. There may be a net gain in efficiency because the EPS will only operate when required.
Engine ignition and fuel management systems require electrical power to function. In the event of loss of the charging system, the battery supplies this power. With the addition of the power steering load, the time that the engine will remain running after alternator failure is shorter than it would be without the EPS. In the OP's track car, depending on the duration of events, this may be a consideration.
Last edited by IHBD; Apr 8, 2025 at 01:21 PM.
Reason: Added text in itallics
Won't the energy required by the electric pump now be supplied by the alternator? Plus there are inefficiencies with the conversion of mechanical to electrical and back to mechanical energy, so isn't it a net increase in "horsepower" required to turn the front wheels?
EDIT: thinking about this further, there are probably losses from constantly circulating fluid by the mechanical pump, even when the wheels aren't being turned. These losses are mostly heat generated by pumping. There may be a net gain in efficiency because the EPS will only operate when required.
Engine ignition and fuel management systems require electrical power to function. In the event of loss of the charging system, the battery supplies this power. With the addition of the power steering load, the time that the engine will remain running after alternator failure is shorter than it would be without the EPS. In the OP's track car, depending on the duration of events, this may be a consideration.
Excellent reasoning! That coincides with what I have read about the subject.
I actually went to a local Wreaking Yad and pulled the Volvo Pump myself. I think I paid around $ 75. Something I have not done in 40 years. The hard part was finding it in the right front fender. If you go get it yourself you can get the Bracket that holds it that has Rubber insulators, I purchased an Electrical Kit for it that came from Portugal and its got a speed control so you can adjust the amount of assist. It could be mounted inside the car but I chose not to. Once I have it where I like it I will probably never touch it. The best part of the Kit was the instructions. It tells You to use THICK Wire for the main power.