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Hello everyone hope all is well I recently changed the oil pan gasket and timing cover gasket plus seals and well I’m having trouble putting in that sensor I’m thinking of alternatives like cutting it in half to plug the hole in the oil pan then maybe with tuner pro figure out a way to not get the low oil level light. Is that an alternative because I’m not sure what’s not letting the sensor go into. Also the oil dip stick is now not fully going in thoughts on that?
Last edited by mateoderb; Apr 10, 2025 at 01:19 AM.
Ugh. That's harsh. I've personally never dealt with this situation before...I'm referring to the sensor situation. I've had plenty of people tell me to **** off.
I don't think that sensor runs into the ECM so, if that's the case, tunerpro wouldn't help there. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong. Or maybe tell me to F off.
sorry just had to get peoples attention somehow yeah now I think about it tuner pro wouldn't save me for this i think it's all through the DIC or wtv that causes the low oil light but to get rid of the low oil light i could just remove the low oil light bulb from the DIC when i install a new Radio system. Instead of cutting it in half I'll buy this $10 plug with O-ring on amazon and plug it that way with some thread sealant. I appreciate your feedback my friend.
Also the oil dip stick is now not fully going in thoughts on that?
When you removed the pan, did you replace any of the main bolts with studs? The dipstick runs right over one of the main bolts near the windage tray. If you put a stud in that location, it will interfere with the dipstick. If you didn't touch any of that stuff, I'd say maybe the pan gasket is shifted and in the way.
That stud has been cut to clear the dipstick.
Well **** this forum and Im just going to cut it and plug the hole since 100 people want to see this but don't want to give a suggestion.
I'm guessing you went in this direction because your issue frustrated you to the point of raging that you unfortunately took out in the forum. I do think that you now realize the lack of response may be because the members that viewed the post haven't ever run in to your issue.
I'm guessing you went in this direction because your issue frustrated you to the point of raging that you unfortunately took out in the forum. I do think that you now realize the lack of response may be because the members that viewed the post haven't ever run in to your issue.
Also can’t see anything with the horrible picture provided. Got to help us help you.
No I didn't touch any of those bolts I appreciate this picture however I did reading on another forum I mean it could be the tube got bent when installing new oil pan gasket and fighting the pan to go in. Here's why I don't think the gasket shifted when I insert the dipstick I hear it hit metal but it doesn't fully go in also to clarify car has no oil in it right now could that simply be it?
I mean it's hard to take a picture under there I was wearing head lamp and flash on my phone and it clearly shows the sensor not going in there that's my current problem right now but it's not end of world I'll just plug it. Perhaps next oil change I could try a different sensor even though this one should just simply slide in.
You never really explained why you are having trouble reinstalling it. Dan
Well the problem I'm having when reinstalling the sensor Dan is it's not going in smoothly I do not wish to just jam it in there in fear that the sensor will break inside and I'd have to drop oil pan again when I already tighten it down and put silicone on the edges to prevent oil leaks.
Probe inward with a skinny screwdriver and see if you can determine the 'elevation' of the obstruction. See if it can be 'levered' upwards with the screwdriver, and if it springs back down. The windage baffle may have cracked and broken at one or more mounting positions, moved downward and is now obstructing the sensor that is supposed to be just below the baffle. My 92's baffle was cracked in 3 of the 5 mounting positions. (I TIG welded reinforcements on all the positions.) This condition may be affecting the dipstick as well.
When I replaced the pan gasket on my 92 I had to gently bend the dipstick tube outward to be able to get the gasket between the tube and the main cap. I bent the tube back and installed the baffle. I double-checked that the dip stick still went in before I put the pan back on. Did you?
The LOW OIL light is controlled by the CCM. There are a series of conditions and time intervals associated with monitoring the level sensor. IIRC, the switch is normally closed. So an open circuit triggers LOW OIL. If you cut off the sensor, jump the two wires together to avoid "LOW OIL" annunciations.
C4Industries' picture is typical of the baffle, but that is not an LT1/4 because the engine pictured does not have 4-bolt mains. The LT1/4 do. The baffle mounting hardware is different too.
Last edited by IHBD; Apr 11, 2025 at 01:41 PM.
Reason: Added last paragraph.
When I replaced the pan gasket on my 92 I had to gently bend the dipstick tube outward to be able to get the gasket between the tube and the main cap. I bent the tube back and installed the baffle. I double-checked that the dip stick still went in before I put the pan back on. Did you?
No haha that's obviously on me I totally forgot about it until I finally got up from being under the car, I'm just a dumb 18 year old working on my vette
C4Industries' picture is typical of the baffle, but that is not an LT1/4 because the engine pictured does not have 4-bolt mains. The LT1/4 do. The baffle mounting hardware is different too.
Yep. This is true. It's an L98 pictured with ARP studs. I bought the wrong stud kit and had to cut that stud off to clear the dipstick. Ugh. At least I haven't been told to F-off...yet...