Originally Posted by AZSP33D

Most places tint the hatch no problem. The ceramic tint (expensive) is very good at blocking heat and UV and even at a very light tint level where you can't even tell that it's tinted. However, the biggest benefit is tinting the windshield, very light tint, it makes a huge difference reducing the "sear" coming through... I can get that done locally but usually cash sale as it's not supposed to be tinted without a prescription from an eye doctor. Funny enough, asked my eye doctor and she said they don't prescribe window tint, but she wanted to get hers tinted after explaining.

Almost as good as the ceramic, is the nano-carbon tint (not carbon) and it's excellent at blocking infrared (heat) for less than Ceramics. For me it was maybe $200 for the windshield $350 for rear glass and sides (one piece rear and slightly darker than windshield but not very dark, see avatar picture although it's not very good resolution) Ceramic would have added $200 total. Don't use cheap metallic tint or cheap carbon tint such as what most car dealerships install, for one it will block cell signal somewhat, it degrades over time, it's thicker and more susceptible to damage, the metallic doesn't block heat nearly as well, and the cheap carbon is not as good for quality of visibility .

As far as alternate gases, the R134 "replacement" is because they are phasing R134 out, so it's not like an experimental gas, and it works/cools much better than R134... uses about half the amount per weight. For R134 you typically should replace the orifice/screen with the R134 spec, with R134 "replacement" you don't need to. Also with R134 you should flush, replace the receiver dryer, apply vacuum and fill, replace service fittings with adapters that can leak, etc. "Replacement" you don't NEED to do any of that... except for the vacuum of course.

Another tip, use Nylog Blue for the o-ring lube, it's cheap and works great, holds a charge longer than dry o-ring, protects the o-rig to minimize wear/trauma, made for AC systems

Originally Posted by Moonunit

OK! Ya’ll got me. How much Enviro-Safe for a dead system? And what’s the diff between that and Zero R?

Originally Posted by Red86Z51

I don't know anything about Zero R, but I used 1 whole can + on my 86 and 87. I charge by pressures. If your low pressure hangs and about 35psi @ 1200 rpm, your vents will blow ice cold.

Oh, and unlike R12 and R134a, you do NOT have to pull the system to vacuum before charging. The only reason I pull the system to full vacuum is to check for leaks. If the system holds at -29Hg for a couple of hours, your system is good and you won't lose your refrigerant after charging. I release the vacuum just prior to charging.