Motor Mounts for Autocross
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,722
Likes: 557
From: Seattle Washington
Motor Mounts for Autocross
I seem to have excessive engine movement is my 1990. Its obvious when accelerating how much my Shifter is moving. And the Header - Exhaust is hitting the floor pan you can feel it. My 1996 Lt4 is not like this at all. Last Season I removed the Motor Mounts to install Polyurethane but when looking at my originals I couldn't see anything wrong. So if its not broke why fix it. I also feel that if I go to Poly up front then I should probably to the same for the Batwing. The originals don't look all that bad back there either. So I wonder why GM changed the design when they went to the LT1 engine in 1992 after decades of basically the same design prior. I suppose I could install the newer design I have Fab Skills but this seems a bit extreme to fix something simple. What are you guys running ?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,119
Likes: 1,997
From: St. Charles MO
Before you change up the cradle or mounts, let's rule out a loose C-beam attachment. Is your shifter **** moving left-right or up-down? If the latter, then it's more likely that the C-beam bolts need to be tightened. That's what keeps the tailshaft from rotating up and down. The C-beam won't keep the engine from rotating around the crankshaft, though: that's the purview of the two motor mounts you're discussing. So if the shifter **** is moving left-right, that's the mounts. Because the C-beam is intentionally not very rigid in torsion, you don't need to match poly up front with poly in the batwing.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,722
Likes: 557
From: Seattle Washington
Well I'm not to proud of my possible solution. Everybody has seen the Chain leading from the frame of the Tri Five going to the engine to limet the movement or in case a motor mount breaks. This is my version we will see how it works.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,722
Likes: 557
From: Seattle Washington
Of coarse the Stiffener Bar needs to pass directly threw the Power Steering Pump so it needs to go. I'm using the Volvo Electric Pump to replace it. This was a straight forward swap that has been trouble free and worked right from the git go. But other than putting a stiffener in I can't see why anybody would replace the original P.S. Pump.