Hi, all.
I'm the proud owner of a 1995 automatic base-model Corvette with the 3.07 gear ratio.
Last summer it started having low oil pressure while at hot-idle so this summer we began the process of rebuilding the engine.
Now that the engine is out of the car and being pulled apart, I decided now would be a good time to add some performance mods, but I'm just not sure where to start. It's currently completely bone-stock.
I originally planned on going with Lloyd Elliott's LE2 heads with a custom cam from him, but after speaking with him on the phone, he advised against doing anything with the heads and cam until after I've done long tube headers, a cat back exhaust, and cold air intake.
I had previously researched headers on the forums, but it seems like most options are either not offered anymore or incredibly expensive. The best option I could find was the long tubes from Exotic Muscle for $1k.
I've also seen conflicting information about whether exhaust systems will get me much since the Corvette's are already pretty free-flowing.
I was hoping to get to > 350 hp for about $2500 on this build, but I'm just not sure that's going to be possible anymore.
I'd appreciate any advice and ideas from people who have done budget builds.

Let me know what you've got!

 

Long tube headers alone with a tune, should give you at least an extra 20-25~ rwhp

I'm also on the same boat looking for a good pair of headers for our LT1s, then follow it with a cam and headers upgrade

I found these videos recently while searching for headers.

Dyno WITH long tubes - tldr - "Results were 295whp and 324 lb ft of torque at the wheels. Crank numbers are 349hp and 382 lb ft of torque at 18% drivetrain loss."

Dyno WITHOUT long tubes - tldr - "275 rwhp 285 lb-ft torque."

Looks like our best options fitment wise for headers would be Exotic Muscle, or American Racing Headers
Some have gotten away with hedman headers, but pretty sure it comes with a headache of fitment issues

 

The intake/exhaust/headers are supporting mods for the heads/cam swap. With a good tune, they'll help maximize your power gains.

The intake system on the C4s is basically already a cold air intake. You can trim the stock airbox lid to allow for more airflow.

Exotic Muscle longtubes seem to be the best bang for the buck headers. I just ordered a set myself. American Racing headers are supposed to be high-quality, but also $$$.

 

I also have a 95 Corvette. LT1, auto, with the 2.59 rear. Over the years I have replaced all the wear and tear items, so even though it is old with 143,000 miles on it, it runs really well. A couple of years ago it had a oil pan leak. I pulled the engine to fix the leak and decided to put in a new camshaft and timing gear set while I was there. I put in a mild Comp Cam 266HR with new roller lifters. It has a 210/220 duration, .500/.510 lift, and 114 LSA. It runs really well. LS1 type of well. It is not a lumpy cam at all. By sound at idle, I think most people wouldn't even know you had done anything. Only during hard acceleration does it sound very angry, in the best possible way.

I do not have headers. I have the stock exhaust with stock cats and stock mufflers. This was on purpose because I don't want the loudness or possible drone. I did Jet Hot coat the stock manifolds. I did not do any tuning or reprogramming.

How many miles do you have on the engine and trans? Here is something to think about. For me, at 140,000 miles, before I did the camshaft job, my transmission failed. I lost 3 gear. I pulled the trans and had it rebuilt. Good as new, very crisp shifts. This was important, because naturally when I finished the camshaft job I drove the car like I meant it. If the transmission hadn't been rebuilt before, it sure would have needed it after. My advice is use some of your budget to rebuild the trans while you have it out. I put in a new, stock, torque converter, but you may want something with slightly more stall. I don't know why I didn't upgrade my converter, other than I have never tried a higher stall, so I don't have that experience.

 

Do you have someone available to tune the ecm after you start hotrodding it? That would determine how far I would go.

If the answer is no then I would focus on airflow. Some porting on your heads ( I would want before/after flow sheets to prove it was worth the $$$) or some aftermarket heads (180cc runners but no bigger than 195) and maybe some 1.6 rocker arms and keep the stock Cam.For what you want the headers aren't really necessary.

You can throw as much money as you want at it but these cars aren't cheap to mod and the choices are slim. Build the best shortblock you can,make a decision on heads,and get it back on the road. If the bottom end is sound you can upgrade more later if desired.Nobody enjoys a car they can't drive.I sure didn't enjoy the expense and downtime of two engine rebuilds on mine.

 

Thank you guys for your input!
Quick update: last night we pulled the crank and cam and found the culprit for the low oil pressure to be a spun cam bearing.
Seems to me that I kind of have to replace the cam now no matter what else I do.
If I had to pull the trigger today, I think I'd get the EM long tubes and call Lloyd again to see about doing the LE1 porting and his 222/230 .544/.568 112 LSA cam.
According to Lloyd's site, that cam should still work with the factory converter, but I am toying around with the idea of getting one with a higher stall.

@Analog Kid According to my odometer I have 137k on it. I bought it at 120k. That being said, the engine is coming apart really easily (the head gaskets basically fell off) so I'm thinking it was rebuilt shortly before I bought it. I'm assuming the tranny is at 137k but who knows. I might consider going with a smaller cam like you did if it seems like the bigger cam might require too many supporting mods for me. (I.e. more than springs, roller rockers, pushrods, and lifters).

@96 lt-4 What makes you say headers aren't necessary? Granted, none of these mods are necessary but based on the videos that @michael95 included, seems like they could be a solid piece on their own while enhancing the gains of other mods as well. I'm not too concerned about getting a tune for it. My brother swapped an LT-1 into his 86 Firebird and he got a custom tune for that so I'll find out who he went through. You're absolutely right about getting it back on the road being the most important thing. I'm itching to get back behind the wheel as it is. I just know I want to upgrade it some at some point and I figured what better time than while the engine is out of it.

Again, I appreciate everyone's thoughts!

 

If you put that much cam into the engine at its stock displacement, It's going to be a 6500rpm engine that will need to be above 3000rpm to pull very hard. Based on the flow numbers I see on his site, I really don't think the LE1 heads are going to take full advantage of the lift on that cam. I'd try to go with something around 218/222 and 110 LSA so you'd get lots of midrange instead of high-RPM power. Or just go with the LE2 heads. I also think you're going to want a looser converter. You may also want to consider a 3.45 rear gear, but that sort of depends on your expected usage.

Headers aren't "necessary," but they will definitely help with power and even midrange grunt. I had good luck with Hooker 2151 Super Competition Headers. The previous owner of my car had those going back to a homemade 3" catted X pipe and then 2.5" Corsa mufflers. The car sounded absolutely glorious like that. Installing headers will be easier with the engine out, but it's still a pain (everyone knows about the rearmost passenger-side header bolt!). Paying someone to fab up the rest of the exhaust is expensive. I don't know of any good way around that unless you're like my friend and can do it all yourself.

 

Headers make power,yes. If I had to choose between ported heads and headers I would choose ported heads every time.Headers can be added later and the biggest single gain in my opinion is well flowing heads.