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I have 244000 miles on my 89 and it's puffing a little blue smoke. I'm running 5w30 high mileage. At my next oil change should I run a quart of Lucas or marvel mystery oil? Should I bump up to like a 5w40 synthetic? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
How about changing your valve seals? You could do it yourself, start to finish on a Saturday! If you been running "high mileage" oil, the additives in those types of oil have already "swollen" the seals in your engine, to aid in sealing. I wouldn't use any additive or change oil viscosity. Do an internet search for changing valve seals at home. You could go with o-ring and umbrella type seals, but I would recommend the use of "positive lock" style seals on both the intake and exhaust. You'll need the seals, valve cover gaskets, new spark plugs, a manual valve spring compressor tool and a special hose made to thread into the spark plug hole on one end and hook to compressed air on the other end (compression tester kit). It's tedious and you'll have to properly set your rocker-arms again when finshed....but this is the right solution to your issue! I love seeing "road warriors" like your corvette, it looks great for the mileage driven, fix it right and keep adding to that odometer!!! I have to mention your license plate, is it a reference to a certain element, or do you happen to be a chemist or physicist? Anyway, sweet car, awesome that it's enjoyed and I'd do right by it and fix the actual cause of your puffs of blue smoke! Good luck whatever you decide to do, but the cure doesn't come in a can👍
Eventually I plan on a full rebuild. But at the moment I have to get it to pass smog. And it won't if it's blowing smoke. The plate was meant to be a different version of "midlife" since the corvette is the "mid life crisis car" lol
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Id try some Mobil 1 15w-50. As stated the valve seal job is tedious but not difficult and if the smoke is due to worn rings, new valve seals won't solve the issue completely.
anyway, yeah try the valve seals. to do it relatively easily, you will need to take the time to gather proper tools. the rope version is for the birds…therefore u need a compressor and the air chuck tool for a compression testor. will need to remove spark plugs.
then a feeler gauge set. all this stuff is inexpensive. then a basic wrench and socket set.
if u going to do it urself let us know. there is a user here Joe C who wrote a very easy method for getting valve lash perfect.
If all you need to do is pass smog, put 15w40 rotella in it just long enough to do the test. If a heavier oil don't stop it (temporarily) I doubt any additive is.
Lot of guys run that kinda oil in high mile v8's anyway but I wouldn't unless it's burning a ton or the oil pressure is low. Drive it easy, especially when cold till
you swap back to normal oil.
If all you need to do is pass smog, put 15w40 rotella in it just long enough to do the test. If a heavier oil don't stop it (temporarily) I doubt any additive is.
Lot of guys run that kinda oil in high mile v8's anyway but I wouldn't unless it's burning a ton or the oil pressure is low. Drive it easy, especially when cold till
you swap back to normal oil.
Oil pressure is on the money. 700rpm warm I'm at about 8psi.
Long as it comes up smartly with a little RPM I wouldn't worry too much about it but it is a little low imo. Last time I had a real gauge on my LT1 it was
in the mid teens at hot idle with 250Kish on it with 5w30. I wouldn't sweat it long as it comes up to the 30's or better otherwise but thicker oil
will usually raise it up some, just makes more drag on the engine in general.
Long as it comes up smartly with a little RPM I wouldn't worry too much about it but it is a little low imo. Last time I had a real gauge on my LT1 it was
in the mid teens at hot idle with 250Kish on it with 5w30. I wouldn't sweat it long as it comes up to the 30's or better otherwise but thicker oil
will usually raise it up some, just makes more drag on the engine in general.
Oh yeah she comes up a bit with throttle and cold it reads about 35ish at idle