I'm ready to start fixing the oil leaks on the 87 convertible I recently bought. The valve cover gaskets need to be replaced. It looks like the EGR pipe won't be very fun to remove since one of the torx screws is under the distributor. I suspect many of you have already dealt with this problem. How easy is it to get that thing off? Do I have to remove the distributor? (I just replaced cap/rotor/wires/plugs) Also, since I don't consider myself too mechanically inclined (but I'm trying!) how much time might I expect it to take to replace the valve cover gaskets? Thanks for your help!! :troll

 

To tell you the truth I dont remember.

I replaced the torx with allen heads and I pull it off all the time. I dont have to remove anything (dist, etc) like this.

I use one of those rounded allen head wrenches which allows you to pivot on the head and still pull the bolt.


[Modified by bill mcdonald, 9:13 PM 2/17/2003]

 

:cheers: You should be able to get to the TORX, just have to hold your tongue in the right place. Use a Torx that adapts to you ratchet drive and you may want to try a universal on the ratchet drive. Allen head screws are a good idea...once you get the original out.

There are several things to frustrate you changing valve cover gaskets and the first is getting the valve covers off. On the passenger side you may have to break the AC compressor loose and take the hoses off the TB. Don't loosen the AC hoses :D .. I believe I also take the air management valve contraption off too!

On the driver side, the Alternator/air pump bracket and braces will have to be loosened up so they can be moved out of the way. Matter of fact, I think the bolt securing the Alt to the support frame has to be removed or nearly removed. It's been a while since i last did it and I guess my mind wants to put the experience out of sight. The windshield wiper motor may be in the way too! But with a little patience you can wiggle the valve cover out from under.

Now you have to put it back! :rolleyes:

Spend a lot of time getting the gasket back into the valve cover correctly and then pray you don't knock it loose trying to get the covers back on the engine

Actually, it sounds worse than it is!


Just think about what you are doing and don't rush it. This is a good opportunity to clean up the engine like you always wanted to

:steering: [ I love that Lil Guy! ]


[Modified by jackdaroofer, 6:32 PM 2/18/2003]

 

I did mine last summer when I had the valve covers cleaned and powdercoated. Use good felpro gaskets. They work super. It is a tough job on a 91 because of the stuff you need to move and work around. Took me two afternoons, lots of "calm-down now" breaks and cussin'. :cuss
Not as bad as changing the runners, though. As with any job the keys are patience and a good set of tools. The right tools make all the difference in the world. ;)

 

Yeah I am going through some of that again.
I got new valve covers and they do not fit so well. I am pulling the AC bracket off and grinding it down to give me more clearence.

 

Bill, myself and some others are having fits trying to find THE set of valvecovers and gaskets that won't leak on Centerbolt AFR 195's. I need taller VC's because we used the long ARP 7/16" studs with Pro Mags, and I also have a SR. So there are clearance issues as well. I went as far as to spend $350 for the Moroso fabricated covers...too big, won't clear. So we are trying to get another set of the good 5/16" Cork-Lam Fel-Pro gaskets to work with the ProForm covers that I have. Any ideas?

 

Did you see that 89Vette posted that he fixed his valve cover leak by grinding down his bolt tubes in the valve covers too? http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=489587

Just this last weekend I tried installing a set of valve covers I got from PurpleC4 last summer. they are the standard chrome center bolt valve covers. they are a little wider and taller then stock. My roller rockers are loose right now with poly locks sitting higher then normal (putting motor back together). I could not get the stock valve cover to seal like this, I tried fitting the new valve covers on the motor and they wouild not allow me to get them on the head because of the super ram runners.

after grinding 4 dips in the new valve covers where the super ram runners hit the sides of the valve cover rail, I could slide the valve cover on, and it sealed up (poly locks still loose), so these valve are a little taller too.

I had trouble on the passenger side with the 90 AC bracket. The stock valve cover slid in and out no problem, these new valve covers hit the AC bracket and scratched up the new valve cover. So they are bit bigger all around.

Also, these valve covers bolt tubes were way too long.

As far as Moroso valve covers size, I am not familar with those valve covers. Is the side of the valve cover (gasket lip) stopping you from setting the valve cover on, or is the taller part of the covers hitting the super ram runners?

Do you have a part number on those fel pro gaskets? I ordered some valve covers gaskets from summit, and they sent me some 40 dollar cork fel-pro gaskets which I did not use.


[Modified by bill mcdonald, 8:03 PM 2/18/2003]

 

I think the valve covers are a little easier to service on a pre-88 due to different A/C compressor design.

Soak the EGR Torx bolts with Liquid Wrench for a while then put the Torx bit into a socket with an extension rap on the end of the extension a copla times. Then bear down realy hard as you turn the wrench till the bolt breaks loose (use a high quality Torx set to avoid stripping the bolts heads). I use a 3/8" drive to break the Torx bolt lose, an allen wrench to unscrew them and a magnetic wand to extract and insert them. Use some antisieze on the bolts to make em easier to remove next time, like when you do spark plug wires. Don't foreget to get a set of new EGR tube gaskets.

I don't have the P/N for the FelPro PermaDry blue valve cover gaskets but they are the real deal.

I had no problem with valve cover clearance over my 1.6:1 ProMagnums on 7/16" studs. I just had to grind down the drip tabs and narrow the bolt towers to get clearance. When first installing the valve covers it seemed as though they would hit but once in place and bolted down clearance was fine. Of course I cranked the engine a copla times with ignition disconnected to be sure. :smash:

Get a copla cans (I used two cans, wet sanding lightly between coats) of valve cover paint from MAD and spend a weekend to remove, referbish and replace them. Just wet sand the covers with 220 AlO2 till most of the brown paint is gone and they are relatively smooth; then start putting on a number of thin coats till you get a nice finish on em.

If you don't paint the valve covers you could do the job on a Saturday, assuming you have all the tools on hand (I usually make a trip or two to Sears on any new project).

 

Hey, thanks for all the input! I knew I'd be able to get some good tips/advice from this group! :thumbs:

 

Bill, I don't have any clearance issues related to A/C, smog pump. (gone) I believe that the Fel-pro p/n is a FPP-1604. Cork rubber w/steel core. The AFR's do not allow you to use the neoprene stock gasket as it's too thin, and the VC won't overlap the inside and outer lip of the ridge around the top of the head like it does on a standard D port head. Bonding the gasket to a clean VC and letting it set up is our next effort.