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4l80e Tailshaft Adapter?

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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Phobos84
I don't know if that would be any easier than starting with a 4.5" chunk of cold rolled box steel or not. Honestly starting with the right size box tubing was pretty easy. I had to cut one edge off and then weld on some tabs. Then I welded on a shim on the top just to fill the space in the C beam. https://www.metalsdepot.com is were I got the 4.5" box steel for mine. It's a little under $70 for 2 feet of it.

I'm not saying that one you found wouldn't work. It might be easier. I'm just saying the box steel made it pretty easy.
Yeah, I had a hard time finding the metal locally, but I didn't try that hard. The way I figure it, it has a bunch of holes in the right places and cutting and welding is easier than drilling holes (I suck at getting stuff correct). I figured that if I was going to spend $70 and have to fab everything, this *might* get me a step ahead or two. LOL we shall see!
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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by marshallnoise
Yeah, I had a hard time finding the metal locally, but I didn't try that hard. The way I figure it, it has a bunch of holes in the right places and cutting and welding is easier than drilling holes (I suck at getting stuff correct). I figured that if I was going to spend $70 and have to fab everything, this *might* get me a step ahead or two. LOL we shall see!
Either way you do it working with steel makes it easy. If something doesn't work just chop it off and make it work. Another thing that made my life easier was I cut the C beam shorter. I used an automatic (D36) C beam and cut around 6 inches or so off of the trans end. Then I just drilled two new holes through both the C beam and the adapter. That way I didn't have to line up anything. I just put a crappy angle gauge on it before I drilled. That way I at least kinda kept the same C beam angle as stock.
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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Phobos84
Either way you do it working with steel makes it easy. If something doesn't work just chop it off and make it work. Another thing that made my life easier was I cut the C beam shorter. I used an automatic (D36) C beam and cut around 6 inches or so off of the trans end. Then I just drilled two new holes through both the C beam and the adapter. That way I didn't have to line up anything. I just put a crappy angle gauge on it before I drilled. That way I at least kinda kept the same C beam angle as stock.
Yep! I can hot glue with the worst of us. The directions for the part I linked mentions you have to shorten up the C-Beam anyway so I knew that was baked into the cake. However, I am using the 4+3/D44 C-beam so that whole assembly might be longer than the 700R4 but be shorter than the 4+3/D44 setup. Either way, get in there and hack is the name of the game.
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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by marshallnoise
Yep! I can hot glue with the worst of us. The directions for the part I linked mentions you have to shorten up the C-Beam anyway so I knew that was baked into the cake. However, I am using the 4+3/D44 C-beam so that whole assembly might be longer than the 700R4 but be shorter than the 4+3/D44 setup. Either way, get in there and hack is the name of the game.
If you're cutting the C beam anyway you could sell the D44 beam that you have for around $250 and buy an auto D36 beam for around $50. I think that's why I cut up an auto beam instead of a manual.
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 04:09 PM
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I took the easy way out and just bought John's billet adapter. It was the path of least resistance for me and since I know it works, I don't have to guess. Going to save time on fabbing that up and put it to fabbing up Alternator and Power Steering pump bracketry for the LS in the chassis.
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 05:48 PM
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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by marshallnoise
I took the easy way out and just bought John's billet adapter. It was the path of least resistance for me and since I know it works, I don't have to guess. Going to save time on fabbing that up and put it to fabbing up Alternator and Power Steering pump bracketry for the LS in the chassis.
I would consider contacting the machinist I mentioned in post #4. Send him the adapter you bought and he will program it in Fusion. You would then have as many as you want to sell yourself and recoup your investment. I'm thinking his cost would be minimal as he is probably in search of new content for his channel. Yesterday's video was him moving shops. Not very "machinisty".
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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by arbee
I would consider contacting the machinist I mentioned in post #4. Send him the adapter you bought and he will program it in Fusion. You would then have as many as you want to sell yourself and recoup your investment. I'm thinking his cost would be minimal as he is probably in search of new content for his channel. Yesterday's video was him moving shops. Not very "machinisty".
I'll consider it.
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 11:20 AM
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Would be nice if they made a 10spd auto tailshaft adapter for those doing that swap
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dizwiz24
Would be nice if they made a 10spd auto tailshaft adapter for those doing that swap
Sounds kind of pointless considering a 10L90 won't fit in a C4 tunnel without a Sawzall and a case of blades.
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by arbee
Sounds kind of pointless.................
I was curious as to what the cost might be that also makes the 10L90 pointless. I found this. $7,100 + a $1,000 converter, +$900 shipping, and it does NOT include a core. Plus the adapter. Yeah, not gonna happen.

Just more Diz Dribble.

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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by IHBD
I was curious as to what the cost might be that also makes the 10L90 pointless. I found this. $7,100 + a $1,000 converter, +$900 shipping, and it does NOT include a core. Plus the adapter. Yeah, not gonna happen.

Just more Diz Dribble.
I don't think it is pointless at all. The one that would make me curious is one for the ZF8. Those automatics are behind the Dodge offerings holding down tons of power.
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 05:49 PM
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Default 4l8OE tailshaft adapter

Paul,
If your C4 was a stick shift the tailshaft adapter and your C-beam and drive shaft and yoke will bolt right in.
John
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by AAFC
Paul,
If your C4 was a stick shift the tailshaft adapter and your C-beam and drive shaft and yoke will bolt right in.
John
Hey John!

Good to know. Its an 87 with the 4+3. I know you had the ZF6, right? Hope they are both the same!

edit: I did throw a tape measure up and the lengths are within an inch. So it might work just fine. Just depends on how much engagement I can get into the 4L80e as it appears a tad bit shorter. But I could be way off.

Last edited by marshallnoise; Mar 19, 2026 at 07:30 PM.
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by marshallnoise
I don't think it is pointless at all. The one that would make me curious is one for the ZF8. Those automatics are behind the Dodge offerings holding down tons of power.
Not sure of your thought process but pretty sure most people besides you and Dez WOULD think it's pointless. Here is Dez's post:

"Would be nice if they made a 10spd auto tailshaft adapter for those doing that swap". Let's analyze that statement. First of all, I know of nobody "doing that swap". Want to know why? Because, as I stated, it won't fkn fit without massive tunnel destruction. Many times here, some have asked about the 6L80 and have been told it won't fit. The 10L90 is BIGGER than the 6L80. Secondly, the 10L90 is about seven inches longer than a 4L60 and about 200 pounds heavier. If someone is going to butcher up their C4 to fit a 10L90 in it, they probably are not going to utilize a bought tail shaft adapter, they have the skills to modify the C beam and build their own bracket. Lastly, what company in their right mind is going to put all the time and effort into R&R, Fusion time and CNC time to sell it to nobody?
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by marshallnoise
I don't think it is pointless at all. The one that would make me curious is one for the ZF8. Those automatics are behind the Dodge offerings holding down tons of power.
I have heard a lot of good things about those. I have a MaxxECU to control my engine and 4L80E and that works really well. A real benefit to have the same control system for both engine and transmission.
MaxxECU put a lot of effort into controlling the ZF-8HP transmission, Gen 1 only for now. Their aproach is to flash a new firmware into the transmission controller inside the transmission. So the OEM electronics is reading all the sensors and driving the solenoids using instructions from the ECU over CAN-bus.
Some supported features:
* Clutch kick - To break traction, something used in drifting.
* Trans brake, with bump function. (Dodge transbrake function)
* Launch control - for small engines that need more RPM to build boost. Clutched are open (neutral) until they apply 100% at launch.
* Virtual clutch - Similar to clutch kick but with analog signal from clutch pedal.
* They reccomend DBW throttle to also throttle blip during shift, reducing engine tourqe during shift to reduce load on the transmission.
* Can use 8HP shifter or emulate shifter.

https://maxxecu.com/webhelp/advanced-8hp.html



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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by arbee
Not sure of your thought process but pretty sure most people besides you and Dez WOULD think it's pointless. Here is Dez's post:

"Would be nice if they made a 10spd auto tailshaft adapter for those doing that swap". Let's analyze that statement. First of all, I know of nobody "doing that swap". Want to know why? Because, as I stated, it won't fkn fit without massive tunnel destruction. Many times here, some have asked about the 6L80 and have been told it won't fit. The 10L90 is BIGGER than the 6L80. Secondly, the 10L90 is about seven inches longer than a 4L60 and about 200 pounds heavier. If someone is going to butcher up their C4 to fit a 10L90 in it, they probably are not going to utilize a bought tail shaft adapter, they have the skills to modify the C beam and build their own bracket. Lastly, what company in their right mind is going to put all the time and effort into R&R, Fusion time and CNC time to sell it to nobody?
Do you **** on everyone's Wheaties, all the time? Just go away and let us DISCUSS on a DISCUSSION FORUM.
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JoBy
I have heard a lot of good things about those. I have a MaxxECU to control my engine and 4L80E and that works really well. A real benefit to have the same control system for both engine and transmission.
MaxxECU put a lot of effort into controlling the ZF-8HP transmission, Gen 1 only for now. Their aproach is to flash a new firmware into the transmission controller inside the transmission. So the OEM electronics is reading all the sensors and driving the solenoids using instructions from the ECU over CAN-bus.
Some supported features:
* Clutch kick - To break traction, something used in drifting.
* Trans brake, with bump function. (Dodge transbrake function)
* Launch control - for small engines that need more RPM to build boost. Clutched are open (neutral) until they apply 100% at launch.
* Virtual clutch - Similar to clutch kick but with analog signal from clutch pedal.
* They reccomend DBW throttle to also throttle blip during shift, reducing engine tourqe during shift to reduce load on the transmission.
* Can use 8HP shifter or emulate shifter.

https://maxxecu.com/webhelp/advanced-8hp.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmDAOdIoKwI&t=1s
Yes, I briefly considered using MaxxECU for this very reason. They just don't have a lot of support over here in the States. My daily is a 2011 A4 Avant and it has the ZF8 in it (though rated much lower) and it is an impressive transmission. All the articles about it stated it made automatic transmissions actually fun. Tons of cool tricks with that transmission.
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by marshallnoise
Do you **** on everyone's Wheaties, all the time? Just go away and let us DISCUSS on a DISCUSSION FORUM.

I only am interested in correct information. Your feelings are a non concern to me. I didn't make the nonsense statement. I simply pointed out WHY it was nonsense. You rebutted it with nonsense. If you didn't want to be corrected, then you should not have attacked my statement of fact. When someone tries to BS me with incorrect info, then I respond. If you can't take someone correcting you then that is a "you thing".
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by arbee
I only am interested in correct information. Your feelings are a non concern to me. I didn't make the nonsense statement. I simply pointed out WHY it was nonsense. You rebutted it with nonsense. If you didn't want to be corrected, then you should not have attacked my statement of fact. When someone tries to BS me with incorrect info, then I respond. If you can't take someone correcting you then that is a "you thing".
So, according to you, oh arbiter of what is nonsense, if someone wants to install a GM 10 speed auto, it is incorrect and worthy of being an arrogant ******* to state your opinion and hold said opinion higher than everyone else.

There is a book you should read. It's called "Winning Friends and Influencing People."

Be less of a dick and more of a reasonable human being. You didn't rebutt ****, you were a dick. Nothing more and nothing less. You won the internet!!! 😂
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