When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Long story short - my neg battery connector is toast. It pretty much tried to arc weld itself to the battery terminal when I had to disconnect it to stop things. If anyone has advice, here are my questions:
1 - The screw threads are shot on the connector. Can the connector be replaced on the cable? I imagine I'm looking at a new neg battery cable though.
2 - Can you get at the bolt on the block where the neg cable connects without pulling everything out of the engine bay? I have a '94 LT1. It looks like I can just touch it if I come up from the bottom near the wheel well and the catalytic converter.
If the damaged cable is from the batt down the cable, how far down the cable before you reach undamaged cable? It is possible to splice the cable and add a new connector.
Don't waste your time trying to fix your cable, just buy a new one. I was able to replace my neg cable with no problems, I got to the bolt on the engine block from the bottom, make sure you clean all connection points when replacing. Oh you have a lt1, that may be different.
Oldman -
Well, the cable is fine as far as I can tell. It is only the connector that is damaged. I can't imagine how a splice would work. I haven't peeled the insulation off the connector, but I imagine that it is pressed on to the wire with more force than I can muster with a crimp tool.
Jeepie -
Yeah, I'm leaning towards replacement. Just trying to find out if its feasible for me to do myself.
An alternative solution would be to get a salvaged batt cable with a "clean" connector. Cut the salvaged cable about 18 inches back from the connector and splice the cables. This would eliminate crimping a new end on the old cable. The splice can be just a short length of copper tubing with an inside diameter to accommodate the batt cable, and then crimp and solder the splice, then insulate the splice.
Mine kinda did the same thing....but I am just forking out $17.50(ecklers) to get a new one...not too much money to do it the right way....changing it should not be that hard.
If it's anything like the side-post cable on my '92, you should be able to just push out the metal hex/screw piece, then go to Autozone or wherever and buy a replacement for a few bucks and press it back in. I found replacements in the "Help!" brand section of parts when I rounded off the hex corners while stupidly using a 12 point box end wrench on the tiny hex. If I remember correctly, I just used Channeloks or something like that to press the connector in/out. It's just held in by the rubber/plastic cable end, but it's too hard to get it out by hand alone. This of course assumes that the rest of the cable is still good.