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Engine is out on manual 86, starter always had trouble and I thought this would be easy. Anyone ever use something thicker the factory? I was thinking 1/0 AWG welding wire but wasn't sure how the routing would work and if someone had a parts list for the battery terminals. Thanks!
I posted this previously. I've never purchased from them but if I wanted to do one of any gauge cable I'd consider them or like I mentioned earlier in 2025 someone that could duplicate their assembly process.
I'd consider a cable from these folks or someone else that could duplicate their fabrication. They can duplicate the smaller gauge links from your supplied specifications. Where are you located? Routing should be pretty straight forward. There are clips and various hardware that attach cable to engine for routing.
I have purchased cables from CE Auto Electric for my C4 - they do a great job and I was really happy with the cables. Looks like I didn't take that great of photos, but here's what I have from when I installed them. These were 1/0 AWG cables and for the ones running to the fuse blocks I used #4. Routing them was a little challenging since they are a bit larger than the originals, but it did work out fine after a little bit of messing around.
Last edited by 86C4vert; Feb 14, 2026 at 08:15 PM.
I have purchased cables from CE Auto Electric for my C4 - they do a great job and I was really happy with the cables. Looks like I didn't take that great of photos, but here's what I have from when I installed them. These were 1/0 AWG cables and for the ones running to the fuse blocks I used #4. Routing them was a little challenging since they are a bit larger than the originals, but it did work out fine after a little bit of messing around.
Sweet I was looking at their website actually. I could figure out a close one for negativ but how did you enter the fusable link splice on positive?
Did you also change alternator wire through them? Anything noticable about the swap performance wise?
I was really deep into rewiring when I did the positive cable, so I built my new harness around 2 fuse block from like a 95 or 96 C4 (they eliminated the jump start junction block and replaced it with 2 fuse blocks in the later year cars). Also I'm not running the original computer anymore so that eliminated fusible links D and H in my car.
What I think you would have to do is either have a connector or splice before those 2 fusible links (D and H), or else the fusible links would need to be a part of the new harness. I seem to recall there being several weatherpacks in there but I don't remember which side of the fusible links they are on.
They should be able to fabricate and duplicate OE configuration for you in any fashion that you specify. You just need to specify pigtail details mentioning fusible link and terminations you desire. Ideally you would lay yours out, take snapshots and measurements and get them to acknowledge they understand. I'd think 1.0 ga a stretch and they should agree. You need to maybe be just concerned with number of strands and quality of them. Is your + cable in reasonable condition that you could lay it out, measure and provide details? Tey should have and understand any fusible link stye that interests you and tidy fabrications.
Awesome, I'll dive deeper into the custom fabricator options.
Random question, does anyone else have grease packed into their Delphi 5 pin connectors? Like the overdrive relay connector or fuel pump relay. For instance all of mine have this thick brown greese packed inside. Was this done at the factory for weather sealing? Almost like dielectric gel. Wondering if I should try Delphi weatherproofing plugs instead?
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
As an option have you considered swapping to a PMGR starter from a later Corvette? Less current draw, lighter weight, and less work (and probably less expense) than rewiring part of the car.
As an option have you considered swapping to a PMGR starter from a later Corvette? Less current draw, lighter weight, and less work (and probably less expense) than rewiring part of the car.
^^ This
While larger, extra fine strand cable is a good idea, I suspect #4AWG or possibly #2 is stock. With the PMGR you could likely run a #6, but I wouldn't, I would consider #4 but would prefer #2, if it were mine. Finer strand counts (more strands per given AWG) can crutch a few extra amps, but is more a durability preference as the smaller strands are more flexible and don't work harden (become brittle) as easily.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by 21boy
Are the later LT1 style direct bolt to an l98 block?
I've been using the later PMGR starters on my '84 and my '69 for several years. They both originally used the same big heavy starter as an '85. I'm assuming you have the 153 tooth ring gear. The battery cable solenoid connection is clocked differently than the old starters, so IIRC the only tweak involved was a short length of cable to allow slack in the routing.
That's awesome, I just bought about 3 feet of purple solenoid cable to repair a minor scratch in the insulation. Probably splice it and wait to connectorize until engine is mounted. There's plenty of threads I saw about starter selection so no worries there.
I think I'll do the alternator wire thicker at #4 (160 amp) and the starter suggestion since my battery cables look nice still. Very helpful thread replies, thanks!
Upgrading Battery Cables
