1987 clutch pedal
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Feb 2026
Posts: 10
Likes: 3
From: michigan
1987 clutch pedal
I have a 1987 with the Doug Nash 4+3, and the clutch pedal developed a "sticky spot?" But it feels like it's hanging up about halfway down. It still operates, and i can still shift without grinding. But past halfway down, the clutch pedal feels HORRIBLE. This is my 1st c4 and my 1st stick shift car altogether. Any advice or pointers?
TIA!
TIA!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,176
Likes: 378
From: Lunenburg MA
I would guess your clutch master cylinder is getting tired. If it was my car, I would replace both the master and slave cylinders along with the hose that connects them (unless they have already been replaced). The parts are not that expensive, it's relatively easy work, and it could save you from being stranded down the road.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 526
Likes: 110
I would guess your clutch master cylinder is getting tired. If it was my car, I would replace both the master and slave cylinders along with the hose that connects them (unless they have already been replaced). The parts are not that expensive, it's relatively easy work, and it could save you from being stranded down the road.
Oil Producer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 9,349
Likes: 2,726
and i will remind you to either suck out and refill the dino non synthetic atf in the od unit assp if you havnt already. if u drop its pan, the right stiff (and only the right stuff for the gasket without overtightening the bolts. cheers. awesome trans! and i run amsoil syncromesh in the 4spd.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Feb 2026
Posts: 10
Likes: 3
From: michigan
Thank you for your help! i checked the master cylinder reservoir; the fluid does look murky, but it's not low or metallic-looking. Definitely needs a flush, but I heard somewhere it could be the pedal bushing that has come apart. is there any truth to that?
Oil Producer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 9,349
Likes: 2,726
you can check, driver seat rearward, phillips screwdriver remove hush panel, care on the footwell courtesy light connector, minful of aldl port connector which can stay in place, flashlight, lay down look up, actuate clutch by hand to see if the binding is from the post. I doubt it. But possible.
Sounds like a good clutch fluid flush is in order.
Sounds like a good clutch fluid flush is in order.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Feb 2026
Posts: 10
Likes: 3
From: michigan
So I put my car on a hoist to put an eyeball on everything, and make sure there was nothing glaringly wrong. also looked under the dash, and there is a trail of dirty grease coming out of the clutch master cylinder where the pushrod goes in. Is it fair to guess that's my issue?
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Feb 2026
Posts: 10
Likes: 3
From: michigan
I put an eyeball on both clutch cylinders, the master says "Manufactured by Repco for Chevrolet" on it not sure if that's original or not, BUT where the pushrod goes in, there is a trail of grease leaking down, is it fair to assume that's my issue?
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Oil Producer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 9,349
Likes: 2,726
that sounds like a smoking gun. yeah i would try that first. Sounds like the piston seals have failed inside the bore of the master.
There are rebuild kits, but ive found that usually on these old cars the bore ID itself has corrosion and tears/wears the seals on the piston. A guy coukd diy hone it, or, like i did after giving up on that, buy a cheap clutch master on rockauto.
If you are familiar with different methods of bleeding, be prepared to bleed your system after you open it all up.
At minimum, get all the old contaminated fluid out, prior to installing the master up top.
At best, replace all 3 components, it will start you off with clean internals.
There are rebuild kits, but ive found that usually on these old cars the bore ID itself has corrosion and tears/wears the seals on the piston. A guy coukd diy hone it, or, like i did after giving up on that, buy a cheap clutch master on rockauto.
If you are familiar with different methods of bleeding, be prepared to bleed your system after you open it all up.
At minimum, get all the old contaminated fluid out, prior to installing the master up top.
At best, replace all 3 components, it will start you off with clean internals.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Feb 2026
Posts: 10
Likes: 3
From: michigan
Parts are on the way, and in the mean time i had one of my buddies sit in the car to feel the "stiff spot," and he said the whole throw was oddly stiff, so maybe this has been going on for a while, and it just now got bad. I have a master and slave cylinder on the way.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Feb 2026
Posts: 10
Likes: 3
From: michigan
that sounds like a smoking gun. yeah i would try that first. Sounds like the piston seals have failed inside the bore of the master.
There are rebuild kits, but ive found that usually on these old cars the bore ID itself has corrosion and tears/wears the seals on the piston. A guy coukd diy hone it, or, like i did after giving up on that, buy a cheap clutch master on rockauto.
If you are familiar with different methods of bleeding, be prepared to bleed your system after you open it all up.
At minimum, get all the old contaminated fluid out, prior to installing the master up top.
At best, replace all 3 components, it will start you off with clean internals.
There are rebuild kits, but ive found that usually on these old cars the bore ID itself has corrosion and tears/wears the seals on the piston. A guy coukd diy hone it, or, like i did after giving up on that, buy a cheap clutch master on rockauto.
If you are familiar with different methods of bleeding, be prepared to bleed your system after you open it all up.
At minimum, get all the old contaminated fluid out, prior to installing the master up top.
At best, replace all 3 components, it will start you off with clean internals.
