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Hey everyone, I ran into an issue when I was reconnecting this line to my fuel rail (injector replacement). Looks like the threads got pushed up? The previous owner had this bolt SO tight it was almost impossible to get loose.
I’m trying to figure out what steps I can take to remedy this issue.
so far im considering a thread chaser ( I believe this is a M16 1.50?) someone correct me if I’m mistaken.
beyond that - I don’t want to use an actual die and shred the metal since that seems risky with a fuel line.
M16 x 1.5, you could try a thread file is the rail side messed up ?
Thats something else to consider as well. I used a mirror to check the inside threads and they seemed to be OK. No visible damages from what I can see.
- I’m thinking the PO tried cutting corners or was just aggressive with maintenance because my cold start injector bolt was stripped too. I ended up plugging it with one of those delete mits( might reinstall later)
Clean with just a 'brass' brush I'd think. A chaser might not be a good choice. You should be able to procure an M16-1.5 INV FLR nut locally to trial fit fuel rail lines. An M16-1.5 INV FLR coupling to confirm the line nuts might be extreme.
Clean with just a 'brass' brush I'd think. A chaser might not be a good choice. You should be able to procure an M16-1.5 INV FLR nut locally to trial fit fuel rail lines. An M16-1.5 INV FLR coupling to confirm the line nuts might be extreme.
I did use a brush yesterday and tried to clean it..unfortunately it didn’t make a difference so I’m trying to go down a list from least extreme to most and hope something works.
Getting another nut to thread on there isn’t such a bad idea (low cost/confirm suspicion)
I did use a brush yesterday and tried to clean it..unfortunately it didn’t make a difference so I’m trying to go down a list from least extreme to most and hope something works.
Getting another nut to thread on there isn’t such a bad idea (low cost/confirm suspicion)
Don't try an INV NUT coupler because the coupler doesn't have sufficient threads to utilize the majority of the threads because of the nut design requiring the o-ring for seal. A Saginaw M16-1.5 for trial fit on the fuel rail lines would work I believe to confirm thread. There are Saginaw style female adapters that could be used to confirm full thread length. Hard find locally likely though.
To me the first and second threads do look messed up. Looks like it was cross threaded sometime in its life. If you can file the first couple to easily start I think you will be fine. Dan
AZSP33D is correct, that flare nut doesn't look that bad to me. The front threads are tapered, and the fuel tube area in front of that fitting has a conical seat shape is designed to seat against the O-ring in the receiving side female fitting.
I would say that if you have the right size O-rings (critical, make sure since they changed at least once over the C4 years), then just use some PTFE liquid sealer (white Permatex) on the threads of the flare nut. That will help provide both lubrication and sealing for when you thread that fitting into the female. Put the sealer on the threads only, not the front side where the O-ring seats. Worked well for me.
AZSP33D is correct, that flare nut doesn't look that bad to me. The front threads are tapered, and the fuel tube area in front of that fitting has a conical seat shape is designed to seat against the O-ring in the receiving side female fitting.
I would say that if you have the right size O-rings (critical, make sure since they changed at least once over the C4 years), then just use some PTFE liquid sealer (white Permatex) on the threads of the flare nut. That will help provide both lubrication and sealing for when you thread that fitting into the female. Put the sealer on the threads only, not the front side where the O-ring seats. Worked well for me.
not seeing how that would seal when the flange and O-ring creates the seal.
Hey Guys, thank you all for the tips and input it was really helpful! I managed to use my thread chaser on the nut and I got those beginning threads back in working order.
Funny enough, the other nut alongside that is getting stuck after about 4 threads so I’ll be tinkering with that tonight😂
Hey everyone, I ran into an issue when I was reconnecting this line to my fuel rail (injector replacement). Looks like the threads got pushed up? The previous owner had this bolt SO tight it was almost impossible to get loose.
I’m trying to figure out what steps I can take to remedy this issue.
so far im considering a thread chaser ( I believe this is a M16 1.50?) someone correct me if I’m mistaken.
beyond that - I don’t want to use an actual die and shred the metal since that seems risky with a fuel line.
any other suggestions? I’m a little stuck here.
thanks
Just to confirm, I'm confused on whether we're talking about the female (fuel rail receiving end), or the male (flared nut on the end of the fuel line). That nut doesn't look that bad to me, I'd honestly not be too concerned. I think as long as you can hand-thread it in, it should be OK.
But what I've had to do in the past, usually with brake lines, is use a pipe cutter to cut off the flared end of the fuel line so you can remove the nut, and then install a new nut (you can buy them on Amazon all day long), and then slide it back onto the fuel rail, and use a flaring tool to re-flare the end of the fuel line.
Just make sure you slide the nut on the right way, and actually remember to slide the nut on before you flare the line... don't ask me how I know.
Concur on whomever said to use PTFE sealer as well. I think there's probably enough there that I personally wouldn't be concerned... but you can replace that nut with one that is less tapered and has more thread exposed to the socket (like WVZR said).
EDIT: It does look like it's the supply line... which will be under full pressure... so you do want to make sure it's not leaking, etc.
Just to confirm, I'm confused on whether we're talking about the female (fuel rail receiving end), or the male (flared nut on the end of the fuel line). That nut doesn't look that bad to me, I'd honestly not be too concerned. I think as long as you can hand-thread it in, it should be OK.
But what I've had to do in the past, usually with brake lines, is use a pipe cutter to cut off the flared end of the fuel line so you can remove the nut, and then install a new nut (you can buy them on Amazon all day long), and then slide it back onto the fuel rail, and use a flaring tool to re-flare the end of the fuel line.
Just make sure you slide the nut on the right way, and actually remember to slide the nut on before you flare the line... don't ask me how I know.
Concur on whomever said to use PTFE sealer as well. I think there's probably enough there that I personally wouldn't be concerned... but you can replace that nut with one that is less tapered and has more thread exposed to the socket (like WVZR said).
EDIT: It does look like it's the supply line... which will be under full pressure... so you do want to make sure it's not leaking, etc.
Correct! It's a Saginaw O-ring seal connection that uses a male threaded nut 'similar' to INV FLR. A person needs to understand what can and can't be used to chase or confirm threads.
These should need just enough torque to seat the o-ring and not come loose during operation. Sealer on the thread makes little sense... if it only threads in half way, look for debris or an old o-ring inside the fitting and clean it out, but usually only threads in 1/2 way or so.
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Fuel Line Connector (1986 Corvette)
