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Happy weekend folks! Did a search but didn't find where anyone else had done this yet. Apologies if its been covered already. Thought I'd share this tidbit i added on my car during my recent optispark change
Frustrated with the FSM recommendation that to fully bleed the cooling system, I have to dribble dexcool on my fresh optispark, and create drips where I just finished cleaning and replacing seals to "hopefully' eliminate drips. So...
Dorman to the rescue! This handy little kit is chilling on the rack at most parts stores. The smaller of the 2 in the kit fit perfectly on my LT4. Fresh dab of liquid thread sealant on the base and the bleeder screw both, ensures nothing gets past the threads 👍🏻
Tidy finished appearance 😁
all tucked in under the factory intake bellows with a little silicon nipple to cap it off. No drips 😁
The line i sourced for the connection was a hair small, but I made it work 'cause I wanted a "clear" hose to visualize bubbles and flow. I had to add a junction to reach down to the overflow tank, but I had enough clear line to see what i needed.
Bubbles at 1st Crack, but slowly it does what it's supposed to.
Closed loop system now, so no loss to spillage Doing this also keeps the pressure tank capped, so system pressure and flow work like normal, as long as the system was burped enough to prime itself. Let the engine run a few minutes to develop a tad bit of heat & slight pressure on the hoses, then open the bleeder. I let mine flow more than likely needed, cause tiny hose wasn't moving a ton of fluid and it just goes into the overflow. No more bubbles, close the bleeder. I pinched the hose end right above the bleeder with pliers and raised it to allow whatever was in the line to empty in the tank.
Let it cool, recheck your level in the pressure tank, and standby proud of your freshly filled, fully bled and dribble-free corvette cooling system
Hope this helps anyone along the way! Cheers 🍻
Coolant Bleed screw alternative/ improvement
Doing this also keeps the pressure tank capped, so system pressure and flow work like normal, as long as the system was burped enough to prime itself. Let the engine run a few minutes to develop a tad bit of heat & slight pressure on the hoses, then open the bleeder. I let mine flow more than likely needed, cause tiny hose wasn't moving a ton of fluid and it just goes into the overflow. No more bubbles, close the bleeder. I pinched the hose end right above the bleeder with pliers and raised it to allow whatever was in the line to empty in the tank. 
