I forgot, and my key was left in the on position for several hours, which drained my battery. I was installing new weather stripping to prevent the battery from draining, but then turned the key switch on so I could roll the window down, and forgot to turn the key off so I had removed the courtesy light fuse which I think contributed to my key being left on. After charging my battery, my car refuses to start. When I try to start, the gages and normal dash and screen lights come on, but the starter doesn't at all engage. All is silent. I looked at the fuse panel and saw nothing to do with car ignition. I then went out by the battery to check the tweo fuse blocks there, The one easiest to access which holds 8 larger size fuses from 20amp to 60amp were all fine. I was unable to access the other fuse block located between the battery and the firewall. Couldn't get to the bottom part of the latch, and it appears he battery will need to be removed to gain access yo these fuses. As many know, removing the battery isn't easily accomplished, and I'm hoping someone else has made my mistake and can tell me how o fix my car. Is there a fuse that could be at fault? I don't know what else it could be and would really appreciate any advice. I'm stuck.

 

Sorry, my car is a 1994.

 

Did you check the battery for proper voltage when trying to crank? The issue may be something as easy as a dead cell in the battery from being totally drained then charged or bad battery terminal connection. Put a multi meter on battery to see voltage with no load and than what happens when you turn key. Unless you shorted something while doing the weather stripping I'm voting to it being a battery issue. If you haven't tried jumping the battery, do that before looking for anything else.

 

I did verify battery is likely acceptable. It shows 13.8V with no load. To be certain, I'll have my wife try to start while I read voltage later when she's up and about. I'll be very surprised if the battery is a problem. It's new and all my accessories and headlights function well, yet the starter doesn't engage at all, complete silence. If the battery is faulty, I'd still expect some starter engagement. TY...Doug K.

 

I have a feeling it might be battery related too. But just a few other things to cross off the list:
- Do you hear the fuel pump priming?
- Is the shifter in park? (park safety switch) if your car is an auto
- Do you have a spare, known-good battery laying around you could briefly swap in to test?

 

I hear something running when ignition is cranked. Starter is silent.
Shifter is in park
Battery is 12V+ when load is on. more when no load.

I've done a little moe
re reading. Gonna cross solonoid and see if starter engages, which I think indicates a bad solonoid?

 

I've also read of some sort of ignition relay someplace by the passenger dash that could be a problem? I looked under passenger side and couldn't see anything. Anyone had to reolace this? All advice appreciated.

 

Vats?

 

That may help. its for the 1990 year model but I can't imagine GM changed too much in that 4 year span. FWIW I would imagine the ignition switch is good as the dash comes alive but maybe start at the enable relay to see if it's blocked by the CCM after going dead

 

OP has a '94 and your earlier 8A-30-0 is of no value to him. Wiring is very different.

 

1994 schematic

After reviewing the two the change is the inclusion of the fuse blocks not present in the earlier cars.

 

I'm not good at reading diagrams as such, but did note there are two 60W fuses somewhere under the hood that are marked "ignition". If an ignition relay doesn't solve my no-starter engagement, I'm going to remove the battery so I can access the fuse block between the battery and the firewall. I have to assume that;s where these two 60 amp fuses are. Can anyone verify?

 

This morning, I replaced the under the dash ignition relay. Had no effect. I then, with difficulty, checked all the fuses 0f 20 to 60 amps in the hard to access fuse block between the battery and the firewall. Again no effect. I also jacked the car up and crossed the solenoid. My '94 cranked normally. I still have the same problem with the ignition unable toat all engage the starter. More reading leads me to believe I may have damaged the ignition coil module. Does anyone know where this is, and how to attack it? TY

 

I've found the ignition coil module, and ordered a new from my local NAPA...cost will be $112+tax. There are alternatives online for less than $30. I don't trust parts with that much less cost.

 

Napa is just marking them up by a ton so they still make money if they have to donate lifetime warranty swap out. The ICM is crazy simple as far as electronics goes.

 

You said it wont turn over by the key, the ICM has nothing to do with the engine cranking so save your money. Also fwiw I have had much better results with the Ebay special ICM's for the LT1 than I have with parts house copies. Both my LT1 firebird and L98 (vortec upgrades) run on the Ebay version right now.

A no crank based on the diagram is either one of the 2 fuses noted, the ignition switch, the starter relay or the CCM. You ruled out the relay as long as you replaced the correct one. I know it can be hard to see under there, and easy to mistake one for another when you're upside down. I would be getting out my multi-meter instead of part cannoning this.

 

I replaced both relays, am certain both 60 amp fuses are good, and am unaware of any applicable fuses in the regular fuse box on the passenger side dashboard. Sure didn't like hearing the ignition coil module isn't a possible problem. Reading I've done generated by AI suggested either the ignition coil module or the coil itself could be at fault. I'm not sharp on this stuff and don't know what else to do. Any more guidance would sure be appreciated. TY for your reply.

 

I just looked up what a CCM is...central control module. Haven't yet seen what it looks like, but understand it's behind the radio. I've had the radio out before, and it's a lot more difficult than I'd think. Guess that's the next thing I'll need to do. Hope they don't cost a lot....seems like I'm getting unfairly punished for just leaving a key on too long.

 

New CCM's arent available any more and they require a GM dealer or a friend with a GM tech II programmer when new for the odometer. A lot of other systems would be malfunctioning if it was the CCM. Also the ICM and coil are not part of the circuit for activating the starter. AI generated information is marginal at best when dealing with something as antiquated as our cars. I would suggest getting your hands on a copy of the 1994 factory service manual. its 2 books, the FSM and the 8A electrical supplement. It gives step by step instructions how to diagnose just about every issue along with location diagrams of where components are.

What you should do is go back to the starter enable relay and start probing. Check pin 1 and pin 5 for voltage with the key to start. If you have 12v on both of them with key on use a test light between pin 2 and 5 when you try to start the car. That will narrow down what circuit is causing the issue.

If pin1 does not have voltage it's an issue with your ignition switch or the pair of 60a fuses. Pin 5 depends on the circuit for pin 1 so check 1 first. If 1 has power but 5 does not it is either the Crank fuse (10) on the instrument panel fuse block on the passenger side of the dash, or the transmission position switch is not detecting P or N position.

If you have power to 1 and 5 when the key is set to start use the probe light between 5 and 2. If the CCM is locking you out it will not provide a ground for pin 5.

If your CCM is the issue I would not go straight to replacement. It is probably an issue with a securety feature needing to be disabled. I am not familiar with the security features of the later C4's so I dont want to lead you wrong.

 

Space 387, Of course, you were right, I changed out the ignition control module this morning to no effect. Next thing I'm going to do is pull and inspect every fuse in my interior fuse box, just to make very certain it's no fuse problem. Assuming I discover nothing there, what would you attack first if you were me, the ignition switch, or the central control module. Both of these possibilities scare me terribly. Wish there was someone I could hire to do this, but in my small town, there's no help available.