I have been thinking about building up my motor, I had my mind set on either a 383 or 396 procharged motor. But ever since I've seen what turbos can do, I am now thinking of having a single turbo small block motor. All the import guys that are twin turboed(ex:supras) go to a bigger single turbo. I figured that having single turbo would take up less space then a twin(obviously) since C4's don't have very much space. I have read a lot of your guys posts about turboing the C4's. I looked at the LPE and calloway set ups, and they both have something in common, you cant see their turbos! Instead of getting block hugger headers, and putting a U bend on them, and have the turbo at the top of the engine compartment. Why not have a 90* bend on the hugger headers, and mount the turbo/wastegate below the engine, out of sight. I am not sure how all of this is put together and works, I have to do a lot of research, I am not sure if it is possible to fit the turbo/wastegate under the car, I know its going to take a lot of custom work, but what turbo set up on a C4 doesn't? If I can get everything to fit under the car, and then mount the intercooler where the stock air filter lid is, you could cut the radiator shroud out and mount an enclosure over the intercooler, kind of like TPIS cold air does with the filter, that way you can't see the intercooler, and then just run a tube to your throttle body. It all depends on if this can fit under the car, and heat is a major issue, I haven't looked into this much, but I am wondering if anything will burn up down there becuse of the turbo? Maybe some custom shielding would do the trick. I was just wondering if anyone has thought of this idea? I'd rather keep the turbos below the car, it would be easier to make headers too, and not many people would know by looking at your car that its turbocharged. I would rather have a single turbo set up, if you just joined both headers together under the car, either on the passenger or driver side, where ever there is more room, maybe that would be better then a twin? Anyone have any ideas or thoughts? I want to do this real bad, but first I have to bulletproof my motor trans etc. Anybody with any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

There is room under the car next to the motors to fit turbos (no big ones, and not much room) The reason everyone s trying the TT setup is because... There is literally no way to get the exhaust from the oppisite side of the car to the other and meet into the turbo..... Another problem would be, fitting a single turbo big enough under there....

Obviously where theres a will, theres a way.... MN_VETTE is doing and under motor TT system... He only has one side done so far.... Look in the post frustrated part 2 for his pictures.....

Your probably going to have to use internal wastegates to save space too....

I suggest you go and get a book called Maximum Boost by Corky Bell..... It goes through how to pick out turbos, how do design your own custom system and everyting else there is to know about them....

 

I love my turbo car....

heres one that is just BAAAAAD! http://www.jdhcon.com/Vette.html

 

That thing is just amazing....... I love that car.... another great turbo car is Ex-Golds 87...... Very nice and super clean..... I love his setup..... Not as much power, but beautiful and still running an 11.01 on his badly slipping tranny.....

Turbo is sooo cool...... A lot of work though

 

Thanks for the help, I will probably go out and buy that book soon. My biggest problem is money! Building up the engine and drivetrain to withstand a TT setup is going to get expensive. Im only 17 so that kind of money is a little difficult to come by. I just want one of the fastest street cars out there, I guess for now running 12's is good enough. What kind of engine build up should you do with a TT? Obviously the strongest stuff, but what compression ratio, cam, etc? I read that it is good to have a big bore and a short stroke, that makes up a little bit for turbo lag? Also will a Dana 44 hold up to a 383 396 TT? I see some people using them on their car, but I don't see how it could hold all that power. Headers are obviously a problem, but almost every TT setup ive seen have equal length tubes for better flow. Most headers don't have that, so is it better to get flanges mounted to your heads, then get mandrel bent tubing and make equal length headers or just use block huggers? There is soo much to learn and do! I might just stick with a procharger, thats a lot easier to bolt on, either that or nitrous, I just tried out my kit last night, and im addicted! I guess when I blow my engine, its time to do the bulletproofing, I just need to find an everyday driver car.

 

Just a note....you wouldn't really want to do a stroker IMHO. The L98 intake already produces enough torque. If you did a 396TT with an L98 style intake you wouldn't even be able to drive the car. A 350 or 355 would be a good starting point. If you get it build, you'll make all the power you'd ever need.

 

the more torque, the more lag you can take, the bigger the turbos you can put on the car :D It would really help if you decide to do a large single instead of twins.

 

This is somewhat true...but I can spin the tires in my car at 60+mph...I know a couple of Callaway owners who can get it sideways at 100mph!!!! So you see too much torque can be a bad thing especially if you want to drag race the car. 350ci should be enough....see the link to the 1000hp TT357ci.

JMHO

 

what, you don't use drag slicks on the road?? :jester All this is true, but it all depends on what your motor is used for, if you are doing drag racing it should be good, road racing, that's another story, slamming on the gas with a car like that would kill someone.........umm, what was that quote...."With great power, comes a greater responsibility" --said the uncle to spider-man


The other thing to remember is that the displacement will only help with low end torque and possibly reliability issues with a turbo setup. HP is calculated by airflow through the engine, hence why 3.0L supras can still get 1000HP. The turbo will have more to do with your HP then the displacement once the turbo is spooled.


[Modified by mn_vette, 12:11 AM 2/25/2003]

 

Wouldnt having more TQ help you out? I mean starting off or when your in a high gear at low rpms and you want to mash the pedal?

Anyway is their even enough room to mount Turbos underneath? You know not no 150HP rated tiny Turbos, bigger ones than that. Also MN vette, how much power do you plan on making with your setup? :thumbs:

 

Hey do you know how much power I could push my stock 2 bolt block to before it breaks down? Also do you know how much power the GM replacement 4 bolt BowTie Block can take? Or should I just go with a Dart block when I want to make big power? :confused:

 

Ofcourse..... but you dont need more power then you can use.... It gets to the point were enough is enough for the street..... With that much torque, you cant hook...... So what good is a 700hp TT Corvette that cant hook the tires and lose to normal V8s.... Even though they have 3xs the power....

Getting sideways at 100 cant be much fun.... lol.... Gotta love Callaway

 

I was watching Trucks and on the Truck Parts or truck tech or whatever the heck he calls it. They had a IRS suspesnison for chevy trucks, Now I was thinking could they put this on a Corvette to replace that weak IRS? Well it was made from a 9inch ford so you know thats strong and the brakes are disc and are atached to the diff. Then what appeared to be solid driveaxels attached to the diff and ran down to the spindels. The setup was for 4K but if it can take a lot of power and help you get traction, and hell even if you could use Slicks witht them, then I guess it is worth it. Did you see this or have anyother info on this? :confused:

 

a small input, the dana 44 is not that weak... unless your planning on running slicks and big rpm launches, it is not going to be the breaking point. the spindles will break first. this being said, chromoly spindles are far cheaper along with better half and drive shaft pieces and the IRS can be beefed up keeping all the handling quality the corvette has intact. the ZF is a stout tranny also, it has a 32 spline output shaft, and for about $800 it can be made stronger and set up better through ZF-Doc. for a little more it can be made almost bulletproof. the clutch will then be the weak link but with a single mass flywheel and a mcleod street twin you should be able to plant the power to the street. all this being said..things are still bound to break if you punish them repeatedly, but this will certainly make for a more reliable drive train for the new found boost power! i am leaving in 5 minutes to get maximum boost from barnes and noble.. MN_Vette, if you read this, i would love to crack a beer and talk shop with ya, i am in NC, EST and wondered if we could rap a bit on the phone, i have some goodies in the garage and am in the planning stage for the TT setup, would like to talk with someone working with the LT1 and perhaps we can help each other out some! talk to ya soon!

Chris

 

SO, I have read many post of people breaking the Driveaxel shafts. Well is it possible that someone make these stronger by giving them thicker walls? Maybe 1/8inch thicker on the walls of the Driveshafts? Also whats this about the spindels? I will not use Slicks, but when I make power I want to keep the handleing characteristics of my 84 :D SO where could I get Stronger Spindles, and maybe some stronger Driveshaft and stronger driveaxels? Would the Dana 36 live up to 600FlyHP?

Also how can I tell if I have a Dana 36 or 44? I think the previous owner might have changes it because it has 3.54 gears instead of the stock ones. So how could I tell if its a 36 or 44, I do know that in 84 they did not offer them, but I dont know if the previoud owner had changed them. :confused:

 

mn_vette, what kind of turbo set up are you running? I looked through the frustrated post part 2, I saw some of the pics, but I was just wondering, are you running a single turbo, I didn't see an intercooler either? Now did you make the headers and intake etc. You have it under the car right? How did that work, I want mine under the car too, so they are hidden. I heard that the stock exhaust manifolds are not that bad for a turbo header? Or would it be better to use block huggers? Then all you need to do is get a 90* bend and mount your turbo/wastegate whatever you need,(I still don't have nearly enough knowledge about this yet), then from there, run a pipe towards your air lid where the intercooler would be then right into the throttle body. I guess you should be able to fit the air filters down there too? Since your already way into your TT project, how much room are we working with down there? I just see it easier on making the headers and cooling everything down if you just had everything below the engine and outta sight. Hopefully there is enough room, but if you don't mind what turbos, wastegates, etc. are you running? How much did it all cost? Im just trying to get an idea on how much to spend. Oh yeah, about the motor build up, I will probably go with a 355 to save on money, and that 1000HP 93 vette, it was a 375 I believe?

 

Hey bud, please listen to me as i emphasize two points, kinda like good news and bad news..lol...the bad news first... DO NOT attempt to use that dana 36 under any kind of power unless you are prepared to utterly destroy it. it will not only fail under 600 fw hp, but much less. the integrity of that casing is simply not up to the task of holding the gearset and it will self destruct with 400+ HP even using drag radials and moderate traction. the dana 44 is STRONGLY recommended.

the good news.... of all the C4 corvettes, your 1984 C4 along with the 1985 C4 came with a different set of spindles then their latter counterparts. the much desired 84/85 spindle and hub assemblies are much stronger then the 86-96 sets and are not nearly as prone to fail. however, the next step above that is a chromoly set or perhaps to have your set dressed for stress risers and maybe nitrided for more integral strength at the metals molecular level. as for half shafts, they do make some aftermarket replacements in a stronger aluminum series and a carbon fiber series. last i remember, Lingenfelter sold the carbon fiber sets for around $300 a set.

for everyone else, an informative about the 86-96 spindle hub assemblies.... the spindles seem prone to break by shearing at the base of the small splined shaft step where the the thrust washer on the spindle meets the bearing face of the hub/wheelbearing assembly one way to help prevent premature break under duress is to keep the wheel bearings in their specified runout specs... do not use bearings that are beyond allowable wobble. this puts the spindles in a bind with good traction and will certainly increase the chance of breakage. its a common problem with the driveline. wheelhop will also kill a spindle quickly as well as wipe out your rear wheel bearings. spindles generally can be had for about 75 bucks used from salvage yards and are around 150 clams new per piece. when a spindle breaks it can sometimes cause a series of broken pieces including destroying the hub assembly, and almost always the ABS sensor, and usually puts a tremendous strain on the posi unit. so theres my piece on those topics i know its a little off topic for this thread but in pertaining to handling the new found power of a turbo it kinda relates :D good luck and lets keep these turbo threads alive.. its great subject matter!

Chris

 

red 91, after looking and deliberating on where to mount the turbos i am leaning towards the same as MN vette, i have in mind the following for adding room... relocating the battery to the rear fo the car by reinforcing the compartment behind the passenger seat and running proper guage cable back. and relocating the windshield washer fluid resevoir...somewhere, not sure yet haven't quit gotten there yet, but these two locations will give room for filters on both sides of the car and some modification to the front side louvers would also act as a cold air induction location and solve a problem for having to run ducting towards the front of the car, its kind of a copy of the sledge hammer design Callaway used. of course my father has a boat dealership and many close connection with boat builders so i am currently racking their brains about popping a mold for some redesigned side louver that would be functional as air scoups and still pleasing to the eye. if this TT setup is perfected, i will offer these louvers in the kit and also seperately for other applications people may have for them. it may require removing the louvers for filter cleaning, but thats not that bad, a small price to pay for the space savings and good location of the filters! all kinds of design ideas brewing here, lets keep this thread alive!

Chris :D

 

Yeah you guys should pick up Maximim Boost by Corcky Bell, I has a ton of info on building Twin Turbo setups :yesnod:

 

I did that just tonight, already about 1/4 through it... :D very informative!

Chris