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Which would be the best and where do I get them from? A track finally opened where I live, now I have every excuse I need to mod my car! So, please, any input will much much appreciated.
Hi,
I guess the key word is compromise. Where do you want the power? High RPM's or low end torque? Do you want to get rid of the Cats? I haven't found a set of long tubes that don't require some form of fabrication. I know most guys will tell you that the shorties don't do anything for you, but in my case, I wanted to be able to take down the exhaust, add a catback system without allot of fabrication, or replace the clutch. In my 92 I had the old fashioned cast iron exhaust manifolds that looked terrible. I went with the shorties, easier and they looked good. One thing the shorties did for me is cool the engine compartment down. Any help?
Strick :steering:
From: What did the 5 fingers say to the face? SLAP!!
Re: Headers. Shorty vs. LT (crheinish)
What do you base your opinion on?
dyno numbers. On a scale of 1 to 10 with stock being 1 and longtubes being 10, I'd rate shorties a 3 or maybe 4. Do a search on the topic and see what everyone else has to say about shorties.
Ok, so next question, where the heck can I get some? I've checked a few places and only find like friggin 800 dollar headers...any help!? And thanks for the responses guys, I really do appreciate it!
That isn't a problem at all. The exhaust port and engine location is exactly the same on an LT1 vs any other normal SBC. I'm running hooker 2151's on mine without any problems.
That isn't a problem at all. The exhaust port and engine location is exactly the same on an LT1 vs any other normal SBC. I'm running hooker 2151's on mine without any problems.
How much fabrication did you have to do to get the LT headers on your LT-1? Do you still have cats? Can you drop the exhaust to replace the clutch?
Strick
I guess I'm a little late, but I wanted to add my $.02. Long tube headers are superior to shorties. Shorties cannot turn over the numbers that longtubes can. Long tube headers are designed to scavenge the primary pipes (tubes that hook up to the head) which result in better airflow through the engine. Shorties do not function that way. I have done plenty of homework on this and wouldn't install anything else on any of my cars. You will feel more low end torque with the long tubes, but you need to decide what you want to focus on more...low end or top end. The bigger the primary tube, the more top end and less bottom end you will have. TPIS is the only company that I would buy headers from. They are a bit pricey, but trust me, well worth it!!! I love mine. They are easy to install and very user friendly as far as fit and hooking up the exhaust.
The only reason why people say shorties don't gain crazy power is because most still run the stock cat assembly which restricts down to 2.25".
Don't listen to people just spreading what they heard. I took a lot of time modifing my Hooker shorties and getting custom 3" cat assemblies made. There is a noticeable different from stock. I went from the stock cats (gutted)and manifolds to reworked Hookers, 3" mandrel bent turn downs to my 3" Car Sound cats. And the car walks away from my friends car even worse:D.
I don't have the time or money to dyno my car after every mod but anyone can notice this difference. You can still gain a lot of power and remain street legal. It's a lot of work my way but I have smog police watching me. :blueangel:
So these Hooker Longtubes will be no problem at all, or just some minor adjustments? And another question, i know I sound like a tardmonkey but, how hard is it going to be to relocate the cats and all that? Ive never done headers on anything before so Im kinda wandering thru the dark here.