I just finished my intake job. My car won't start, because I didn't know how to install my distributor with timing light. After I received some advice, I try to readjust my Piston #1 to match my rotor. Here is what I did:
1. turn camshaft until the white line match with the timing plate(before, after,.....). Then I adjust my rotor to point to #1 spark plug terminal. The car try to start but it doesn't have enough power to start. I find out the battery is gone. so I put a new battery and try to start it again. After several attempt, the car start, but I have to keep tap the accelerator. The car will die as soon as I stop tap accelerator. I also see some black smoke at the exhust pipe and some stem at the precat. Can anyone tell me what cause this or it could just be the chemical I use to clean the old gasket in the intake. What should I adjust to release my feet from the accelerator? Am I doing the correct way to start the car. Thanks very much :nono:

 

Tophorse.

Sounds like your timing is not set correctly.
There are TWO positions that the 'white line' lines up.
You just need to be sure the line, lines up on the compression stroke of the number 1 cylinder.

To make sure, remove the # 1 plug and use a compression gauge to see when the cylinder is coming to the top of the compression stroke.
Have an assistant 'bump' the starter for you while you watch the gauge.
As soon as you see compression start to build..stop turning the engine with the starter.
If it went too far crank on around again until it starts coming up on the compression stroke.
Turn the CRANKSHAFT MANUALLY until your timing lines match up.

Here you can install the distributor.

Remove the distributor cap so you can see the ROTOR.
Point the rotor at the number one spark plug.
The distributor shaft will rotate a little as it meshes with the cam gear so you may need to offset it a litle to end up with the rotor pointed towards the #1 plug.

Set the distributor cap back in place and (BE CAREFUL HERE) you need to make SURE the plug wire that is directly OVER the distributor rotor goes to number one cylinder.

Using the firing order of 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 make SURE each plug wire goes to the correct plug.

IF the distributor wires have been removed and replaced incorrectly you may NOT find #1 cylinder plug wire directly under the rotor point.
In this case, simply remove the wires and put them back on using #1 as a reference.
Then make SURE again each wire goes to the correct cylinder.

The engine should now start and run.
Now you can use your timing light.
Be sure to disconnect the ESC reference wire at the distributor before attempting to set the 'base timing'. Base timing on an L98 is 6 BTDC.

Be SURE and check for vacumn leaks if you've had the intake off.
Your system is a MSF system so be SURE to check for air leaks before and after the MAF. Particularly AFTER the MAF.

That's about it. Good 'ruck with it!

 

"The engine should now start and run.
Now you can use your timing light.
Be sure to disconnect the ESC reference wire at the distributor before attempting to set the 'base timing'. Base timing on an L98 is 6 BTDC.

Be SURE and check for vacumn leaks if you've had the intake off.
Your system is a MSF system so be SURE to check for air leaks before and after the MAF. Particularly AFTER the MAF.

COULD ANYONE EXPLAIN TO ME WHY WE HAVE TO DO THIS STEP? WHAT IS TIMING LIGHT? WHERE ARE THEY? WHAT AND WHERE IS ESC WIRE? WHAT IS " BASE TIMING"? WHAT IS MAF? SORRY TO ASK SO MANY QUESTIONS. I AM STILL NOT CLEAR ON THIS PART.

 

"The engine should now start and run.
Now you can use your timing light.
Be sure to disconnect the ESC reference wire at the distributor before attempting to set the 'base timing'. Base timing on an L98 is 6 BTDC.
Be SURE and check for vacumn leaks if you've had the intake off.
Your system is a MSF system so be SURE to check for air leaks before and after the MAF. Particularly AFTER the MAF.

COULD ANYONE EXPLAIN TO ME WHY WE HAVE TO DO THIS STEP? WHAT IS TIMING LIGHT? WHERE ARE THEY? WHAT AND WHERE IS ESC WIRE? WHAT IS " BASE TIMING"? WHAT IS MAF? SORRY TO ASK SO MANY QUESTIONS. I AM STILL NOT CLEAR ON THIS PART.

 

Timing light--A device that has a strobe light effect. When working correctly, every time the inductive lead senses electricity passing through the wire, the light flashes. Hook it up to #1 wire, aim at timing mark, and rotating balancer becomes "stationary" to the eye.

ESC bypass eliminates the computer control of the timing. When this wire is disconnected, the control module provides full control over the advance and retard. You don't wnat the computer adding advance when setting timing...so you do it like mentioned.

MAF is a Mass AirFow sensor. Your computer uses it to see how much air is entering the engine. A leak after the MAF will likely give false readings to the ECM.

Base timing-What you set the timing at when you are setting timing according to specifications. Look at the emissions label on your radiator shroud. The radiator shroud is the plastic piece on top of the radiator. Will likely be on the drivers side. Gives more info on setting base timing.

Timing lights cost anywhere from $25 to $100 bucks. It may be cheaper for you to take it to a shop if you do not own one/know how to operate one. They might let you watch them set the timing, so you will be able to later on down the road. Good luck, -85Y