Any tricks to installing this? Man is it tight going. Should I warm the damper prior to sticking it on? Can I use the bolt to run it on or do I need a special tool.

Thanks,
Jason

 

Did More Performance do your work?
Strick

 

They make a install tool for the thing, The bad part is the install tool don't fit in there. Here is what I had to do. Take the OEM bolt down to the hardware store and match up the treads, Just about a half inch longer that the OEM one and get some flat washers. You want to get a about a half inchs worth. Satck the washers on the bolt and start walking the thing on till you Oem bolt garbs the rest.


[Modified by corvette0096, 9:35 AM 3/10/2003]

 

You need the installation tool, you can get a cheap on from Summit to do the job. The reason you do not use the bolt to pull it on, is becuase of the slight press fit, you could end up ripping the threads out of the crank. I have numerous times before I knew better used the bolt to install it, however I learned the hard way and stripped a crank and it is not worth taking the short cut on, just buy the installer. I've never had to put one on the vette with the engine in it, but if there is not enough room because of the R&P, then move it, it will be much easier than replacing the crank later.


[Modified by snaketr, 1:59 PM 3/10/2003]

 

Jason, I just did this 2 days ago :yesnod:

If you don't have room for the tool to fit, you'll be just fine walking it in with bolts and washers. The threads on the one I had were 7/16 x 20 (which is fine threads). The trick is to buy bolts in 1/4" increments longer than your stock bolt and use 2 or 3 standard washers over 2 or 3 fender washers against the dampener.

If you check thread depth on the crank, you'll see that it's 3/4" more or less, with additional room at the foot of the threads. When you start pressing the dampener on, just be sure you use a bolt length that gets you about halfway in before you start cranking on it.

I paid less than $3.00 for all the bolts and washers at the hardware store, if you take your time and don't try to horse things before you test the length, you'll be just fine. Oh, BTW, I stripped a crank about 30 or 40 years ago just horsing the thing on and the previous poster is right........ that's a real treat to deal with :lol:

 

I do the same, but I *OIL* the threads, crank snout, bolt and washers to make it as easy on the threads as possible (go nutz with the oil can). And go slowly. Don't crank on the wrench, so if something binds up you can back it out before you hurt something.

:thumbs:

 

If boiling water temps are ok with the fluid damper, this helps:
Boil the damper in water for about 15 minutes. That will cause the crank snout hole to expand. Since the crank is cold (not expanded), the damper will slide on a lot easier.
This was suggested by the literature with the damper I bought for my son's car (it wasn't a fluid damper though). As hot as the engine gets, I doubt that boiling water will hurt the damper. Under these conditions, I drove the damper on with two good swings of a hard rubber headed tire hammer. I was stunned, I thought that I'd have to whack it a few times.

 

Strick, More built the short block that I have been runnign for a coupel years now. Good work and no problems. I just put in a hotter cam.

The Callies crank has a very deep hole compared to the stock crank. The threads do not start until much deeper. I'm going to go to a specialty bolt store and see if I can buy a long piece of grade 8 all thread to fit in there and use that to run it on. I can barely get it started on.

 

Boiling the damper sounds like a good idea. Possibly you can figure out a way to chill the crank snout with dry ice to help reduce the press fit even more. Also, I made an installation tool. I started out with the center bolt for a truck spring. These are fine thread and available in different diameters. My crank needed a 7/16ths. At the local bearing house, I bought a couple of Torrington, flat thrust bearings. I used hardened flat washers as the bearing races. Thread the center bolt into the crank, with the damper in position. Then slide one THICK washer on first, followed by a bearing, another washer, another bearing, and lastly the third washer. Use a hardened, spring u bolt "hi nut" to force the damper onto the crank snout. This is really what a commercially available installation tool, is. The big advantage to this, is that the threads in the crank are fully engaged from the beginning, to reduce the risk of pulling the threads out of the crank. I have never used this in the car, but you can make the center bolt as short as you need to for max clearence. Resist the temptation to hone the hole in the damper for an easier installation. It WILL ease sliding it on, but the damper needs the tight, press fit, to work properly. Good luck, and...

RACE ON!!!

 

Thanks guys. I warmed the damper a bit and used a bolt 1/2" longer than stock to get it started and then ran it on the rest of the way with the stock bolt. Went on real easy.

 

i pulled the transfer(hard) line off the rack and my installer fit with no problems.used a snap on installer.........i wouldnt do it any othere way JMHO because if you do get in a bind ..........you are REALLY IN A BIND :yesnod:

 

I have pictures somewhere from when I installed my dampner with the engine still installed. Yes it is a very tight fit. Dropping the swaybar and power steering cooler made it SO much easier.