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In Canada....yes, I would. It would help you in cold start-ups. Better consistency than regular oil or you could use synthetic blend. I use it in mine because it states to on my 94. I use the blend in my other cars....grocery runner and trip car. I used it in my 1990 5.0 ( ex-state police pursuit) for 8 yrs and never had the motor apart...even the valve covers. Never used oil or burned oil and had 236,000 miles til I was hit head on (drunk driver)...totaled. I took the valve covers off and it was clean as a babys okole! That sold me on synthetic. It might cost but I know what it does.I have 196,000 on a 87 t-bird and 109,000 on a 99 Taurus.Bought them new ( Taurus was after the drunk) both motors never been apart and clean as a pin:thumbs:
BTW you have your TB bypassed? Do you hook it back up in the winter?
I would still switch over to Mobil 1, its better for the internals.
It is possible that the detergent package will eat away any crud around the gaskets and cause an oil leak, but you also will have NO sludge in the oil pan when you change the oil.
I say the benefits outweigh the possible problems.
I tried it in my 86 and the valve covers leaked so bad that oil would puddle up under the car in the garage. Went back to castrol and no leaks. The cheap magnesium valve covers were what was leaking.
Synthetic is a good switch, especially in cold climates, but remember that 10w30 mineral oil is good to around -32F. The problem with synthetic oils eating away at gaskets is no longer really an issue. There are only a few things to look out for with a synthetic oil. First they tend to leave harder valve deposits over long term use which can be a pain. Second, due to the high perfection of the molecular chains, deterioration of the oil will occur more rapidly as compared to mineral oil. So though the synthetic's "quality" will last a while longer than a mineral oil's will, it will die off rapidly toward the end instead of a tapper down. This is however becoming less of a problem these days since most synthetics are a group III base oil (mineral oil is also a group III base oil). Group IIIs are very fine but are not a true synthetic. I believe Mobile 1 is currently the only major brand that uses a group IV, that is a true synthetic. A good idea is to use a synthetic blend. Not only is it easier on your wallet, there are some needed properties in a group III mineral oil that a true synthetic does not have, i.e. the slower drop off rate and softer deposits. As far as mileage goes, you can switch at anytime. Hope this helps some. :chevy
The FIRST thing to do before you switch is repair any small oil leaks you may have.
This almost always means new valve cover gaskets on a small block Chevy.
If you have a front timing cover seal that leaks just a 'little' then get that fixed also.
Ditto on rear main seal and oil pan seal.
Another favorite leak site on the SBC is the distributor shaft gasket.
ANY small leak you have now will turn into a bigger leak after you switch to synthetic.
Seal'em up and then switch.
On my 73' Chevy Truck I run just ONE QUART of Mobil One mixed with the rest of the Castrol 10w-30. "They" say you can realize almost all of the anti-wear characteristics of 100% Synthetic by using just one quart.
My three Vettes and LS-1 Z28 get 100% Mobil One changed every three thousand miles.
I know this is common knowledge, but in 92 the Vettes LT-1 went to synthetic oil from the factory. They did away with the oil cooler and found that at higher temps synthetic oils hold up much better. Also, you'll gain a little better gas mileage as the crank doesn't have to work as hard pushing through the heavier conventional oils. That's probably a sales thing, but it seems right. But the thing I like about synthetics is its lubricating properties. :yesnod: :yesnod:
Yes it is true, if you have a leak, it will leak more when you change. Fix that leak, then change.