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I am in the midst of wiring my early lt1 for heated o2 sensors and have a couple of questions:
1) What is the current draw of the sensor heater circuit? I would like to know this so I can decide what keyed circuit I can safely tap into.
2) Related to (actually answered by) question 1, what gauge wire? The sensor and connector wires appear to be 16 gauge :confused: . I will also run an inline fuse of the appropriate value.
If it makes a difference, the sensors that I am using are Bosch 13190, based on the excellent how-to in the tech section :) .
Vince,
I tapped into the fan relay. On my L98, it was under the brake master cyl on the fenderwell.
The first time I hooked it up, I accidently hooked it to a non keyed hot wire (the sensor stayed hot even with car off). It took two days to kill the battery. :crazy:
I wired mine using a relay and essentially pulled power straight from the battery. There is no sense in over stressing an existing circuit. As for the current draw, I've got 2 heated sensors, and I EVENTUALLY blew a 3 amp fuse. I think I've got a 5 in there now.
I wired mine using a relay and essentially pulled power straight from the battery. There is no sense in over stressing an existing circuit. As for the current draw, I've got 2 heated sensors, and I EVENTUALLY blew a 3 amp fuse. I think I've got a 5 in there now.
Hey Nathan, do you have relay part number for the electrically challenged? I will be doing this mod in a week or so for my new 5151's.
When I moved my sensor all the way back to the intersection of my Hooker Y-pipe I used a four wire trailer harness with the flat plugs from an autoparts store. The wire gauge is very sufficient, and the connectors are pretty weatherproof. Of course it required that I solder one of the pigtails to the four wire O2 sensor. The relay used to power the heating element of the sensor also came from the parts store. I used heat shrink tubing to make everything tight and well sealed.
Got it, thanks everyone. Looks like about 3 amps total. If I use a relay, what's a good place to tap into direct battery power?
Ron, good luck at the track, I would go today but my car is on jack stands again with wires hanging all over :cry . Supposed to be a nice day too. I'll go next week for sure if it's not raining. :cheers:
Not sure yet, I am going to try to run to the parts store today and see what they have. I am thinking any standard mechanical SPST or DPST relay rated at >5 amps should work (I have two sensors, if you only have one a SPST should be what you're looking for, you can go with Radio Shack automotive relay part number 275-226 that should work fine). I'll let you know what I find if no one else chimes in.
:cuss :jester
Thanks for the tip, I'll stop by the parts store (yet again) on the way back from work. I was going to solder them, but I can imagine the heat could damage the sensors or something, didn't think about that.
[Edit]Searched the archives...."reference air paths" through the wires? Holy crap, this is weird.[/Edit]
the archives...."reference air paths" through the wires? Holy crap, this is weird.[/Edit]
Yep. There's so much information out there that I haven't had a chance to check out yet. I was going to go through some of the patents, etc and see if there was a better explanation of why. It is one of those things that I just "learned to accept" until I actually have a chance to do some further digging for the info...fact or fiction? I'll take it as fact for now! Might change my mind later :-D :cheers: -85Y
Actually it is indeed fact! I looked in my service manual and it talks about the reference air being obtained through the actual sensor wires. This was in the LT5 section, the LT1 section does not mention it, so it may be sensor specific. I will use crimp connections just to be safe. Weird stuff.
After I finished, I hooked up my ammeter to see what current these things are pulling. When I first turned the key, the two sensors pulled 5.5 amps (combined), which quicky fell to under 3 amps after a few seconds, at which point my attention span expired. I used the radio shack automotive relay mentioned previously and ran a dedicated circuit from the distribution post behind the battery, using 16 ga wire with a 10A inline fuse. Works great. Thanks for all the tips. :cheers: