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It's been awile since I posted anything on here because its been so damn cold up here for the last 3 months(avg -15c). Now that its warming up I have started working on my 84/auto and I need to get the diff out. I would like to know the easiest way possible to remove the diff and/or axle assembly as I believe the posi unit is shot. The car is on stands so there is room, but not a hell of a lot. If anybody has done this before I could really use your knowledge as i have never done this before and my Chiltons book tells me to use tools I have never heard of before?
I did a swap some years ago, not too bad, took a weekend (I'm slow). I really did not need any special tools as I swapped the entire pumpkin. If you are going to do anything with the internals yourself, then you will need some special stuff. It might be better to either do a swap or send it out to a professional for rebuild. Setting the gears is more of an art, and if you don't do it right you have whine and will probably shortly get to do it again.
Good opportunity to get some different gears in there or just get a D44 and be done with it :hurray:
You can do it by yourself with the car up on stands (as high as possible) and a jack to help you raise and lower the pumpkin. I also remember using a couple of bottle jacks too. Good opportunity to redo the rubber under there while you are at it. You might also want to consider putting in a drain hole too. I remember someone posted a procedure where you drill a small hole that lets the oil drain thru the bottom cover bolt when it is removed. Something I wished I had done.
You will need to remove the C-beam that runs from the Tranny to the rear end. Then remove the halfshafts, drive shaft. Anything that is bolted to the pig will need to be removed, I'm trying to remember what there is, I know the rear spring and the tie-rods need to come off, the spring take out completely, be careful she can fly when you remove the nuts on the ends. the tie-rods just unbolt the bracket they are on and move it back out of the way. There should be enough play in the suspension to pull them out enough to get the rear end down, there is I think only two bolts that hold the pig to the car and two that hold it to the wheel assembly. This is not hard to do and can be done in a day. For me the C-beam was the pain..
If you could work around the wheels they would not even have to come off, so no you don't have to take it all apart...
The half shafts just have to be disconnected, not necessarily removed, but then again, it would be a good time to freshen up the U-joints while you are in there, and give your bearings a good inspection also.
Be extremely careful with the spring, it will hurt you.
You don't need the spring compressor like the manual says, but you do need to be careful.
I kind of helped out with a D44 swap last week, what he did was place a jack under the end of the spring and when he removed the bolt, the jack held the spring, then let the jack down very slowly.
You can leave the 1/2 shafts attached on the wheel side. Do a seach on my user name I have the swap from d36 =>d44 pretty well documented.
Let me know if you need anything :cheers: To get it down out, should only take about 2 hours. Putting it back in was about equal time. Its really quite simple. :thumbs:
The half shafts just have to be disconnected, not necessarily removed, but then again, it would be a good time to freshen up the U-joints while you are in there, and give your bearings a good inspection also.
:iagree:
place a jack under the end of the spring and when he removed the bolt, the jack held the spring, then let the jack down very slowly.
Yep, that's how I did it. The only thing I did differently was to use some thick rubber pads on the jack cup to make sure no spring damage occurred.
I am going to try and take the "pumpkin" out without removing the rear supension or the batwing. Atleast if I do it this way the rear suspension will be still tied together.
That's the way I thought about doing it, but when I got into it, it just seem like it was better not to.. Go ahead and try it if it works good let us know.. I would like to know in case I have to do it again... :seeya
Will do. I work on it about an hour or 2 each night as time allows. next comes the trans brace, than all I have to do is try and get that pumpkin off the batwing.
I am going to try and take the "pumpkin" out without removing the rear supension or the batwing. Atleast if I do it this way the rear suspension will be still tied together.
What do you guys thimk? Am I :crazy: or :yesnod:
Wedge
Wedge,
I think you'll find the work to remove the diff with the batwing in place isn't saving you any time. The batwing seals the case, getting everything back together without leaks or stripping threads will be tough. I don't think you're crazy, just inexperienced. I used the FSM as a guide, it has a great step by step procedure.
Inexperienced.......You'd be 100% correct. This is my first vette and everything I fix is a learning experience. I'm gonna try it my way(frank sinatra did!!!!) and if it doesn't work, atleast I'll have learned from my mistake.
Thanks for the input guys/gals, I'll keep you posted on my progress.
Inexperienced.......You'd be 100% correct. This is my first vette and everything I fix is a learning experience. I'm gonna try it my way(frank sinatra did!!!!) and if it doesn't work, atleast I'll have learned from my mistake.
Wedge,
I think you'll find the work to remove the diff with the batwing in place isn't saving you any time. The batwing seals the case, getting everything back together without leaks or stripping threads will be tough. I don't think you're crazy, just inexperienced. I used the FSM as a guide, it has a great step by step procedure.
Eric
:iagree:
I'm going to agree with Eric on this one. After doing the job, I don't see how you could get a leak-free mating from under the car. It was challenging enough just getting the diff cover and "bat wing" seamlessly together on the workbench. Good luck! :)
I've done this exactly one more time than you have, last winter when I upgraded my Vette to 4.10 gears. Thanks to the Forum, I was able to get it all back together and it even tracked straight.