When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
recently my wifes 93 vette has had an intermittent no crank problem related to the pass-key. Usually if left alone for 4 minutes it would start right up. Today it left me stranded. Does anyone out there know if there is a way to bypass the system? By the wiring diagram I see that I can bypass the circuit to the starter enable relay but have no idea what signal the ecm looks for.
Scott
Yes, you can bypass it. Take a digital ohmeter/voltmeter and put the leads on the pellet on the key- one lead to each side. Take the reading in Ohms and got to radio shack or somewhere. Buy or order a resistor that matches your key. Lower the panel under the steering column. There will be a small 2 wire harness that comes down from the steering column. Unplug the connector and install the resistor ends into the plug that does NOT go up to the steering column. You want to put the resistor into the plug that goes towards the VATS module. If you have more than one key, try the other also. Do a search under VATS and find the chart that has the 15 values just to make sure you get the correct resistor. The key could be a few ohms off and cause this problem. Figure out which code your key is (ohms reading should be close) and use that to determine which resistor you need.
Try using your spare ign key, its pellet contacts aren't as worn as your everyday key. Next, insert key in the ign and unplug the 2 wires from the ign sw that make contact to the pellet and measure the resistance of the wires from the steering column (ign sw). The resistance should be the same as the pellet. If over 10k ohms, you need a new ignition switch. I recommend that you do not bypass your VATS with the fixed resistor because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
I recently had my first VATS problem on my 93 vette. I went to start my car the other day and all accessories came on, seemed normal, but starter would not engage. and being new to corvettes i used this wonderful board and searched through the archives to find a lot on the VATS system.
now from a lot of users perspectives, if the vats has an issue, just order the VATS bypass plug and be done with it. well i started to think that was best until my mechanic friend came over and tested the car for me. at first he wasn't sure what the deal was but he tested all fuses and they were fine. then to make sure the starter worked he jumped it with a screwdriver and it turned over fine but the injectors wouldn't fire (note: one of the VATS functions) so he had an idea about the ignition switch so he pulled the steering wheel and i'll be dammed, one of the 2 little wires that connect to the cylinder and key in the ignition was broke and not reading the key at all so the VATS wouldn't unlock.
So i went to the dealership and bought a new cylinder and key for a total cost of 95 dollars . after hooking this up the car cranks up and runs great and i still have my security. I ordered the VATS bypass just incase i get stranded again for a quick fixto get home. Now true that not everyones problem is like this but maybe it will help some newby like myself figure out whats wrong.
Thanks to all of you - especially Siveck - for your input. On my way to rescue mamas vette I stopped at radio shack and picked up the needed resistors for 3 bucks. Took all of 10 minutes to get Ruby running. Saved a flatbed tow back to my house - probably at least 75 bucks. I will most likely replace the ign switch in the near future. I also did a search for resistence values as you suggested and wrote them in my service manual as GM didn't feel it was necessary. Thanks again- the Corvetteforum is an unbeatable source of information! Scott