I'm new to this stuff. I've got a stock L98 w/auto trans and drive it daily - I don't intend on doing motor mods - but I'm interested in improving intake and exhaust ( letting it breath ) - I've cut the lid and need to know if a modified MAF sensor will do any good? I've read the threads about a stock MAF only flowing about 529 CFM and a modified about 750CFM - at what point do you need the added flow?? Isn't the flow of air being pulled by the engine and would probibly only be needed at higher RPM's & speeds (Drag racing 1/4 mile) not just occasional stop light to stop light or nailing it to get up to speed? :confused:

 

I have cut the screens and fins from my MAF sensor, it's been like that for about 2 years with no issues.

Vic

 

No issues here :iagree:

 

The purpose of the screen is to smooth out the air, so the MAF gets an accurate reading. Removing the screens will mess with the calibration of the MAF, but is really only noticably different at idle. I removed mine and it does pose a *small* tuning issue, described above, but it for the most part negligible.

The reason your doing this is for performance purposes, and I posted some stats the other day, but it got carried away by a few and locked out. I will post it again and it shows the CFM requirements for a given size engine @6500 RPM and 100% effeciency. This in other words is worst case scenerio for these engines, and will cover 98% of these size engines out there, unless your revving to 6500+ RPM with some special setup. I know the zr1s redline at 7200, but that is addressed in the other 2% :D

Here are the numbers. I would suggest you base your decision on these, which if your primarily stock conf, you would probably be better off leaving them alone to maintain that smooth idle.

MAF can flow ~750 CFM

The CFM (air Flow) requirements for the following engine are as follows:

350 cubic inch = 658.28 cfm - 49.46 pounds of air.
355 " = 667.68 cfm - 50.16 pounds of air.
383 " = 720.34 cfm - 54.12 pounds of air.
406 " = 763.6 cfm - 57.37 pounds of air.

Again, these CFM requirements are assuming 6500 RPM which is way higher than you would need to rev your engine, and also assuming 100% efficiency..Dont we all wish.


Hope this sheds some light.


:cheers:

 

Thanks for the info. I notice on your setup you didn't use a power coupler(smooth Tube) between MAF and Super Ram? Are they just a waste of $50 and would a superRam or cold air system make a difference in the every day driving or just in racing?

 

As always, great info. The 750cfm for the MAF, thats with the screens and heat sink removed right?

Take a look at the Lingenfelter modified MAF sensor on their web site. It appears from the picture that they leave like every 5th or so piece of screen in. So instead of removing the entire front screen they open the distance between the horizontal and vertical screen elements so that the remainig grid is now rather large. This opens up the air flow and still allows some straigthening of air flow passing through it. Seems like the best of both worlds to me. I'll be trying that when I cut mine.


[Modified by 1MoorTym, 11:04 AM 3/28/2003]

 

Not sure about the tube. Proably snake oil again. but can't say for sure. Again it all boils down to how much air your engine NEEDS. If it only needs 500 CFM then your wasting your time at making the screen mods etc to get the MAF to flow 750. Yeah that was with the screens and fins removed.

Not only that but those figures are for 6500 RPM and 100% efficiency. Your probably 20% less than them. Find the items that flow less than the engines requirements and you will find power. If your heads are the bottle neck, doing anything to improve components before that is a waste of time/money. If the heads flow better than the manifold, improve the manifold, if the manifold flows better than the runner, inprove the runners, if ........you get the picture?

Its quite simple when looking at it that way. You also have to be concious of the exhaust side of things as well. That is why you will hear me preach about a WELL MATCHED up setup. cam, heads intake, exhaust => big smile......start slacking in one of those areas or simply overlook it and :cry

Hope this helps understand the rational.
:cheers:


[Modified by ski_dwn_it, 11:20 AM 3/28/2003]

 

Don't expect noticible gains from a gutted MAF or ported plenum although these won't hurt and may give a little better throttle response. Having said that of course I have a gutted MAF, 52mm TB, ported plenum & upper runners and a siamesed base.

Remember that even between traffic signals the engine will rev out in 1st gear!

You will notice gains from a 160deg stat and fan sw, 2 1/2" mandrel bent front Y, hi-flow cat and good cat-back.

An underdrive pulley set will also help, as will a TB coolant bypass, cut-back spark plugs and high performance wires and ignition.

For street use consider a TansGo shift kit and a 2,000rpm TC for a whole new driving experience.

 

Any tips on where to find the info on typical flow or just good place for info - like that - is there Engine Basics & Mods for Dummies or something like that?