Guys,

I'm rapidly getting more familiar with my car, but I'm at a bit of a loss with this. Fast Glass was kind enough to tell me some wires that run 12V hot when the key is turned on, but I need to find some of these things and for looking I'm just not sure which connector is what on my '85. I just don't know where they are.

egr solenoid - my first choice in hooking up the oxygen sensor voltage to
vapor canisterpurge solenoid
air divert valve
air select switching valve

Can someone knowledgeable tell me what some of these things are located next to? I know this is difficult without pictures. I am very grateful to you all, as usual.

The second part is, what is a neat way to solder/splice into that power source? I have a soldering iron and am comfortable with using it, but I rarely have had the need to splice into another source. Do I just strip a little of the sleeving away from the hot wire and then solder to it forming a lowercase 'y'? :cheers:

Shayne


[Modified by sspackman, 2:26 PM 3/30/2003]

 

Why not use something closer to the exhaust and O2 sensor lead like the Fuel Pump Relay? :confused:

 

Remember, There are no dumb questions, just dumb people.... :smash:

 

I had been suggested that but was concerned about hooking into a critical system like that.


[Modified by sspackman, 2:29 PM 3/30/2003]

 

Hey! I guess that would be me! New title: Heated Oxygen Sensor Part 2 (Dumb People Coming!) :D :cheers

 

sspackman,

There are a couple of ways of tapping into wires. The two most reliable are butt connectors and soldering. What I generally do is the same as what GM recommends:

1. Soldering--cut the wire on the car, strip back both ends 1/2" to 3/4". Twist each individual loose end tight (prevents fraying), then twist both ends together like making a regular 2-way splice. Strip 3/4" off the O2 lead, twist it tight, then wrap it around the first splice. Then solder. Ideally, when you're done, all 3 wires should be parallel as possible.

2. Butt connector--get a slightly larger butt splice than normally needed. e.g. if all 3 wires are 18ga, get a 14-16ga connector. Cut the wire on the car, strip 3/4" off one end, twist together with the O2 wire (both leads should be facing the same direction), insert into the butt splice. Insert the remaining wire into the other end, you can "fold" the lead back to make it thicker if desired.

Some guys actually strip the insulation using a razor, w/o cutting the wire, then just wrapping the 3rd wire around it. But I found that's extremely hard to do.

HTH :)

PS. Don't use those T-tap connectors that only require pliers, and bite into the wires. They are quite unreliable IMHO, especially in an exposed area. I would never use those on my car.


[Modified by JasonL, 2:01 PM 3/30/2003]

 

The FP relay isn't a good source as the power to it isn't switched, only the trigger signal is switched.

I suggest you use one of the other mentioned switched power sources. You could splice into the D terminal of the the oil pressure switch as it is only hot when the engine is running. There is a terminal block to the right of the master brake cylinder where 4 or 5 red wires connect together. Here use a DMM to verify it's a switched source and then just clip a spade lug onto the end of the O2 sensor's power lead for the connection.

Otheriwse, depending on how much power that heated O2 sensor uses you could use an insulation displacement connector from Radio Shack. It just clips onto the target wire then a lug on the end of the new wire plugs into it.