I was wondering if anyone had a procedure or checklist for firing a new motor first time around? I have recently rebuilt my 94 LT1 and and getting ready to drop it back in the car, I was hoping to get an idea of how to fire it up the first time...

 

I have an 88 and I just finished rebuilding it. From the research I have done and past experience, prime the oil pump first. Once you have oil flowing through all the oil galleys your ready to start it. Once you the engine starts you want to run it between 1200 and 1500 RPM. Vary the speed from idle to 1200 to 1500 RPM. Do not let it idle. Check for leaks. Adjust your fuel pressure right away because you don't want too much fuel washing your cylinder walls. Time the engine. This will probably be about a 30 minute process. After that, drive varying the speeds for the first hundred mile. Do not keep it at a steady sustained freeway speed. This will not help seat the rings. By varying the speeds you are putting pressure against your cylinder walls and forcing the rings to seat.
I hope this helps.

 

CISCOKID, I see that you are new to the Forum...WELCOME! :seeya

 

I used an old distributor shaft with the cam gear ground off. Chuck this into a variable speed 3/8 drill and turn the oil pump to prime it. Make sure you turn it the right way.
This won't do you any good if you don't have a distributor on your engine.

 

From what ive learned, you cannot let her idle once you start it, you have to break the cam in and idling wont do it.

 

Running at 2000 rpm for 20-30 minutes was for breakning in flat lifters and not applicable any more for roller cams.

I still ran mine at for 20 minutes though I guess out of habit.

 

:iagree: No need to break in the cam, especially with your LT-1. I'd run it for a while, shut it off, and check for leaks and fluid levels. Then step back and have a beer, you deserve it. :yesnod: :yesnod:

:flag :flag :flag

 

Ok this brings up a few other questions....namely how do I spin the oil pump to get oil into the engine? It's a 94 LT1 so no distributer (unless you consider the optispark a distributer, but it doesn't have one in the traditional sense). Secondly, it's always been my understanding that you start with some 30 weight, fire the motor, let it run for a few minutes, shut it off, drain the oil and replace with Mobil 1, is this not the case?

 

I dont really care about the LT motors (no offense to anyone by it) so I have never really paid close attention, but I think someone said the block still has the hole for it, and can do it without the intake on... again, just something I think I heard....

As for the motor oil... Although break in directions are different for every person asked, the majority say to put about 3k miles on with dyno oil before swapping to Synthetics. As for what to use to start, my engine builder suggests Castrol 30wt (I am pretty sure). Change at 2 hours run time or 100 miles depending on how you break it in... And again at 1000... then start at 3000 with Synthetics.. Then however often you decide (3-10k depending on use and juice).

Goodluck... Its a GREAT feeling starting your new motor up for the first time :D
Matt

 

Whatever you do, do not use synthetic oil until the rings have seated. If you use a synthetic oil it will cause the cylinder walls to become slick not allowing the rings to wear into the metal. I would not run synthetic until you have run that engine for a least 1500 miles minimum.

 

I recently did a build and drop in of my Lt1 (see sig). The first thing that I have to say is that I have about 350 miles on it, and I am still on DINO oil. I will stay that way (5w30) till about 1000 miles. The highest RPM that this motor has seen so far is about 4200. That was by accident, and I have been keeping close attention to the Rs since day 1. I make a habbit of shifting at or below 4k.

There have been conflicting reports on what oil to use for the break in period - syn vs dino. I went with dino, but every person has their own opinion on this. I believe that the LT1 motors (from the factory) were broke in on Mobil1, but that would meen that the outer surface of the rings would be special to "match" the cylinder walls, to make this possible. I put new rings on it, and got the walls honed, therefore, I went with dino oil to break her in.

Now, as for the priming business, you will have to use a special tool to do this (autozone has it). There is a small hole in the lifter gallery that you will have to put this tool in and turn for a little bit. Turn by drill, until the oil starts to come out of the push rods. You will have to do this before you have the intake back on the long block.

If you do not prime the oil pump before you put the intake on :nono: then you could, I suppose turn the starter with out the spark plugs in the heads, until you get some oil pressure.

Whether you have the plugs in or not, the very first start will be messy, as was mine. Smoke everywhere and a little oil consumption (1/4 qt) is normal, I guess.

I will be changing the oil at 500 and at 1000 miles, I will change to synthetic.

Have fun!