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it should lower the temp of the coolant entering the engine...right??? i'm also interested in this as i just ordered one yesterday b/c i am tired of running so hot. :lurk:
My LT1 does not run hot......will a 160 stat still make a big (30 degree)difference? And if I change the stat, will the car run hot in traffic?
It may not make as big a difference as it does on the L98, because you already have a 180.
A better modification for you would be a fan switch, especially if you do alot of city driving. The car will still run hot in heavy traffic, but it will take a while longer to do so. So if you were in town for 20-30min, it would still get very warm, maybe not quite as hot as it once did but still pretty warm. Whereas if you were seeing 235F after 10min of city driving, you would not be as likely to see it with the 160 installed.
All you have to do is make sure you dont get coolant on your optispark, and remember to burp the system if you change the stat. (burping-let it warm up to stat temp with rad cap off, and refill when it drops)
I agree with all the posts....except to get the best use you should change the chip.......and the fan switch.....to complete the job....
This is what I did....Hope it helps you...
tony
:flag
Above 35 mph when higher air flow through the radiator provides high heat transfer from the radiator, a 160 stat will likely keep coolant temps close to 160, but even with the fan on and sitting at a light or below 35 mph, your coolant temps will be the same as with your 180 stat. Any horsepower gain by running coolant at 160 is primarily in the mind of the user. During one long posting about 160 stats a while ago, one CFer ran his C4 on a dyno with the 180 stat and then with a 160 and there was no difference in hp. Running automobile engines at 160 is too low and increases cylinder wall wear.
I got better temperature control by installing a switch to force the fan on and cleaning my radiator fins and by installing a Stewart water pump.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Re: thermostat change? (jfb)
oh boy, another thermostat thread!
Your vette (assuming your cooling system are in good shape) uses both the thermostat and the fan to control operating temps. GM's goal is to keep your coolant temp between 195 and 225. If the coolant is below 195, the thermostat is closed, so coolant flow is restricted, allowing the engine to heat up faster. If the coolant is above 225, the fan comes on to cool off the coolant, which cools the engine down.
Basically, your minimum operating temp is determined by the thermostat, and your hot idle temp is determined by the fan setting.
Drilled thermostats are a trade off... they increase your cars maximum cooling capacity, but severly hamper your cars ability to reach operating temp when its cold outside. (the thermostat is shut to try and let the engine heat up, but alll that coolant is bypassing it and keeping the engine too cold)
The thermostat rating in no way affects your hot idle temps.
A new chip OR a fan switch will help your hot idle temps, you only need one though, not both.
Running automobile engines at 160 is too low and increases cylinder wall wear.
How does it increase cylinder wall wear? Lubricity of a high tech synthetic oil such as Mobil One Super Syn is not effected by an approximate 15 - 18 degree (on average) operating temp drop. If the oil's lubricative properties are unaffected, how can wear be increased? Still not enough of a temp differential to account for expansion/contraction issues with the piston rings and cylinder walls.
Also, the coolant temp does not run 160, for same reason as it doesn't run 180 with a 180 stat. With a 180 stat the temp runs around 192 - 194 going down the road with a reasonably clean radiator. With the 160 stat same scenario runs coolant temp high 170's.
Oil temp is the more accurate measure of actual internal engine temps. in summer with the 160 stat and fan programming my oil temps run 195 - 205, range, and around 180 - 190 in winter.