Ok, I am looking for some of you guys to help me figure this stuff out and most likely I will forget something out, but all I know is its thursday and I have plans to have this baby back on the road sunday..so I geuss I am counting on the all powerful forum...here goes:

The power locks do not work(none of them)...
passenger side is stiffer than hell and worked once (tried wd-40..no go) ...
drivers side is free rotating as it should be but almost too easily...
(Both locks work by physically sliding the little bar thing)

Details:

Drivers side:
The lock freely turns from side to side. I took apart the door panel apart and found that the 5 pin connector that hooks up to the door switch has two wires cut that come from it. They are the the grey and tan ones (they go to the motor.) My theory is they cut them because the motor is possibly bad and shorting but that is just a theory...any other ideas? Is there a way I can test the switch with a voltimeter to see if it is working....which prongs do I use if so?

Passenger Side:
Key turns in door to the left fine, turns to the right not at all. I accidently got lock out once and was able to force it unlocked. Tried WD-40 method, no luck. This side has no wires cut. Voltimeter again....???

I don't know exactly what is wrong but I have all day friday to fix it, so help would be awesome. I once heard that if one switch doesn't work, they both won't, is this bs?

Anyway thanks for reading and really any help would be greatly appreciated. TIA

 

This happens to be on an '86 I think
http://www.batee.com/corvette/keyles...kschematic.gif

Our cars do use a 5-wire switch, reversing polarity motor; so yes, if certain wires are cut, nothing will work. Everything needs to be hooked up for proper operation. No clue why anyone would cut the wires.

Be extremely careful when testing with a multimeter; since the switch has both 12V and ground, it's easy to accidently bridge two leads and sparks may fly or damage may occur.

I don't know about the passenger side :confused:

Good luck!

 

First, let me get on the soapbox and get that out of the way. Buy a GM manual for your '86. The GM manual has circuit diagrams, troubleshooting steps and shows the locations of components. It's worth it, buy it.

Off soapbox and on to business:
Not exactly bs, but not exactly correct either. It sort of depends on how the passenger switch maight fail. Your passenger switch is actually wired to the driver switch. The driver switch is wired to both motors. Both switches get power, but only the driver switch is wired to the motors. Thepassenger switch provides the driver switch with ground for the motors. If the grey and tan wires are cut at the driver switch, neither motor will work from either switch. In addition, you can't arm your UTD, this is the Universal Theft Deterrent system, AKA Forced Entry Alarm system. I suspect your Security light in the DIC always flashes when a door is open. If the passenger switch is bad, it usually only affects the passenger motor, but as the motor ground comes from this switch, it can also cause neither motor to work.

Here is where you need to start. It sounds like you have mechanical problems with the lock rods. This is causing the binding on the passenger side and the fact that nothing seems to happen with the lock cylinder on the driver side. The driver cylinder has probably become disconnected from its rod. You need to get these mechanical problems sorted out before you start on the electrical because this could very well be what caused your motor/s to fail and short. You're probably right about this being why someone cut the two wires there. Once you can lock and unlock both doors using the key and the manual slider easily, you can then look at whether you have a shorted motor/s.

Get the mechanical part sorted out and get back to us, we'll then talk you through the electrical part.

 

Thanks guys.
First off, I do have the shop manual (best investment ever) which is how I knew that those wires went to the motor. Ok, so hmm, the lock rods are what you are thinking? Those are not directly connected to the lock cylinder right? Hmm, I have never seen one like this before but I guess I will try to figure it out. The slider door locks work pretty smoothly with a little catch right in the beginning so I am going to try to work that out or at least see how its related. Thanks!

So is there anything at all connected to the lock cylinder other than the wires?

 

Since you say you have the manual, go to page 10-19 and look at Figure 10-25. I'm not sure what your asking here. You have to have a rod attached to the cylinder or using the key to unlock the door would do nothing but disarm the UTD. Study the figure.

 

Ohh man how could I not see that!
Ok I was looking at fig. 10-23 to get that there was no rod, but in 10-25 there definitly is, and I don't have it at all in the drivers side door. . . :mad
Just went and looked closer, the passenger side has one, it is hard to see with all that door frame in the way but the drivers side definitly doesn't, so I geuss I gotta order one or something :mad

I will try to at least get the passenger side working smoothly.
So heres a question:
How do you get in there to fix it. Do I have to take off the next segment of door, the part riveted on??? (I think this might get to be real fun. . . )

Thanks for all the help so far!

 

Ok, passenger side unlocks mechanically but is rubbing the door (I think?) when the lock rod tries to turn to lock the door. The drivers side has no lock rod whatsoever!

Anyone ever had to get in there, Do i have to take out the rivets and really tear into this thing?