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how would one go about finding out which rear end setup is on your vette! i am wanting to change the gears!! also do you need to change the whole rear end casing ... or can you just change the ring and pinoin??? :steering:
You have a dana 44 if that was an oiginal stick car.
To find the gear ratio you can check the codes in the glove box, I *think* g92 is 3.07.
Or you can jack the car up and mark a spot on the tire and on the driveshaft. Turn the wheel one full revolution, while turning the wheel you will need to count how many times the driveshaft turns.
For instance: With 3:45 rear gears. The driveshaft will turn just shy of 3.5 revolutions, with one complete turn of the wheel :cheers: :cheers:
You don't need to change the whole casing to change the gear ratio. A ring and pinion swap will work just fine.
Go with 4.10's, you will love them.
This is a subject that I don't know as much as I want to know. Have you personally swapped the ring and pinion? Was it difficult to set the gears correctly? Other than a dial gauge, what special tools do you need? Where is a good place to buy my 410s and the speedo corrector. How much do they cost? So many questions. Anybody remember if someone has documented this in the past? Boy, do I want those 410s. I remember the day I put a set of 456s in my old 57 Chevy, my neck is still sore, and I supprised allot of GTOs. Enough of memory lane>}
I paid $300 for my Dana OEM 4.10's. The person whom I purchased the gears from had a hookup with Dana. Unfortunately, he no longer sells these gears.
I paid a 4x4 shop $350 to setup and install my gears. I am a decent mechanic and personally I wouldn't try to do the gear setup myself. You may want to pull the center section and have someone else setup the gears.
Strick, if you don't have access to ECM tuning equipment, you can buy a new speedo drive gear for ~$7 or less from a number of different sources which literally takes 2 minutes to change once you have the car in the air. As for the actual gear change, I would recommend taking the center section to a reputable shop and have them set up the gears, as the D44 (or D36 for that matter) require some special bearing pullers that aren't needed in conventional differentials. Also, it is fairly easy to put too much preload on the aluminum center section since it will flex.
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