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I have an AutoXray and it is showing recorded knocks at WOT. I thought this was false knock and replaced the knock sensor and ESC (knock module). I torqued the KS to 14 ft LBs. I checked the timing and its at 6 deg. I'm running 89 octane. I don't have an overheating problem. I checked the O2 sensor and its fine. I replaced the fuel pump (w/AC Delco) about 10 months ago. I don't have a fuel pressure gage yet. Is there anything else I can check before I get the FPG? The O2 is reading low 800's. Is that considered lean? TIA
That is indeed lean; between high 800s and low 900s is good.
Maybe an AFPR would help; before you pull the stock fuel pressure regulator measure the pressure at idle with the vacuum hose disconnected. This is the baseline for the AFPR startup.
Rick, you have done several mods to increase air flow yet are running stock fuel pressure; so I suggested to install an AFPR to match fuel flow to increased air flow.
Also, when you changed the ESC module, did you install the stock part of use the upgrade listed on my site? Gordon Killebrew suggested this upgrade when I too was having a false knock problem and it fixed the problem.
Thanks for the advise, and the new ECM was the updated model. I ordered a fuel pressure gauge and AFPR. I post what I findout after I check the fuel pressure.
Why would you attempt to run this car at 89 octane???????
Of course its going to knock!
With a comment like that I feel like I must be the only person running 89 octane?
This car is mostly stock and owner's manual only calls for 87 octane, plus when I run 91 octane I still get the knock. :confused:
When your tank is almost completely empty, go get 2 gallons of race gas ($4-5 a gallon) and stick it in there. If you're still getting knock ... it's obviously false. You could still get knock with 91 is my guess.
And why the hell does it say it only requires 87 octane :eek: :confused:
First don't run 89 octane. Second of all, you can test it pretty easy to see if its false knock.
Loosen the distributer holddown so you can barely move the cap. Retard the timing about 2* then take it for a ride. See if the knock decreases. Then do it again, record the log.
The base chip has TONS too much timing in it for emmission reasons, they want you burning every last molecule of gas, then some. This leads to knock problems that are addressed by the knock sensor. Don't let anyone kid you, they installed these knock sensors for more emmision reasons, than to help save engines. On top all that they make us pump hot air (EGR) back into the cylinders that make the problem/potential for detonation even greater.
Do the little test I explained above, you should see the counts decrease each time, till there are few or none. If they remain, then you have false knock.
Thanks for the help, and I think I'll try the timing test. I'm leaning towards the fact that my AutoXray might be sending bogus info. About two years ago I had the car scanned at a reputable corvette shop and they said they tested the car and their equipment didn't show any knock. On the way home I plugged the AutoXray back in and it showed knock counts. What my AutoXray will not show is if timing is being pulled. I have a forum member that is going to scan my car with his EASE software and laptop.
Thanks for the support and help. I just want to make sure my baby isn't sick before I go and do any more mods.
Your fuel pressure sounds about right, at least at idle.ad
Route the gauge out from under the hood onto the windshield and hold it in place with the wiper. Then go out and hammer it into 2nd gear and observe if the pressure maintains or drops off as more fuel is drawn.
I still think that O2 value 800mV at WOT is way low; try upping fuel pressure till it rises to around 900mV and check for knock retard.
Run premium. Also, run a can of GM top engine cleaner through it. The carbon buildup really gets the knocks started. If the AutoXray is seeing it, so is the knock sensor.