Converts only-X frame box?
Strick :flag :flag :flag
As for jacking, I put my floor jack on the pinch weld in the center of the door jack it up where I need it. Then I place jack stands at the pinch welds between the arrows. That way I can still remove the cross brace for tranny work or whatever else I have to do under there. Been doing it that way for close to 10 years now with no twisting problems. I've left it up like that for weeks at a time.
[Modified by vetracer, 12:22 AM 4/23/2003]



As for jacking, I put my floor jack on the pinch weld in the center of the door jack it up where I need it. Then I place jack stands at the pinch welds between the arrows. That way I can still remove the cross brace for tranny work or whatever else I have to do under there. Been doing it that way for close to 10 years now with no twisting problems. I've left it up like that for weeks at a time.
With a vert, you should have the Z52 package which includes additional frame braces at front and the extra cross member just ahead of the radiator.
That's about as stiff as you are going to get.
My 88 rdstr has 104,000 miles and I added the 30mm front and 24mm rear bars to make it even stiffer.
The only squeak I have, with the top down, is some where around the center console, sounds like leather on leather or plastic on plastic. No rattles either.
Some tricks I have learned...1) tighten up every screw, nut and bolt you can see, once a year...don't overtighten. 2) apply a lite coat of silicon dielectric grease at door posts, lock bars, top lid,...anywhere metal can rub against metal.
:steering:
:flag :flag :flag
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