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well the shop put 3 master cylinders on and 3 slave cylinders on........they sent my car home to me on a tow truck :mad ...still cant get a good pedal feel and car is undriveable...........so i get home and bleed the system completly....no air at all...thats a good sign but still a mushy pedal.....so i crawl under and watch as the pedal is pushed the clutch fork moves around a inch with no delay from pedal to it moves............i kinda feel there may be another problem with the clutch and pressure plate...which is also new......if anyone has any ideas i would love to hear them..........as i have a car with a 3400.00 richmond trans(also new) and a 1500.00 labor bill and a car in my driveway that cant be driven..........PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME :( :( :( :(
Every clutch is going to feel drifferent. When you say undriveable what do you mean?
Does the clutch just not disengage?
We installed a new clutch in my dad's F-150, new pressure plate and slave cylinder. The pedal is now extremely soft but it seems to work fine. I'm thinking it's the no name pressure plate he put in it, weaker springs perhaps.
it does not disengage..............but i watched it(slave rod) move around a inch......how far should the slave rod move :( :( :( :( :( i am at wits end....i am ready to put the c-4 in the back yard and just enjoy the Z06 :)
Hmm. When I first installed the clutch in my 92 I had the same problem. We doublt checked everything and it looked fine. Eventually we ended up removing the transmission, doing nothing, and putting it back. It worked!
Actually we put the clutch alignment tool back in the disk and pressed the pedal. Sure enough it released and the disk could be spun using the alignment tool. We put the tranny back in and everything worked. To this day I don't know why it didn't work the first time and I really don't care. All I know is that it hasn't given me any trouble since.
if i start it in gear and press the clutch pedal super hard it will start but i feels like a poorly bled clutch..........althogh we have bled 3 or 4 qts thru it.....we gravity bled it,power bled it from above,phoenix bled it from below and again tonignt i used a mity-vac vacume bleeder and still no avail..........i almost still think that is the problem but now i am searching hi and low :( :( :( :( :mad :mad
there has to be some air in there still...........i just read a bunch of archived posts ......and if i pump the hell out of the clutch i can get it going down the road but it leaves just as fast and i have to pump like crazy again........i have bled every way possible and cant get it right...............any other suggestions before i scrap this project to the backyard forever :cuss :cuss :cuss
Try removing the mater and bench bleeding it in reverse until all the air is out. Cap it tight, put something over the hose connection so it wont leak (I used an old slave bleeder) and reinstall to see if you get any results. You can also lightlity tap on the master rad to work some more air out.
This is how far I got on mine before I found I had a bent clutch pedal (my 2nd). So I am not sure about the results. I know jim85Iroc bench bleed his master with good results.
I also took my master apart and checked it. One of the two tiny holes that go into the master assebbly from the resevoir was nothing but a pin hole, I drilled to to be a little larger to allow better fluid flow. Just stick a rag or something into the cylinder hole so you don't mark the inner surface with your drill bit when you break thru.
I'd pick up a speedbleeder for the clutch, and try that way. This all happened right after the pressure plate & clutch install. maybe too short of a throwout bearing, bent fork, wrong pressure plate, I dunno. By looking at the slave cylinder, it looks like the piston should move more than 1 inch. I'll know alot more after I tear mine apart. :smash:
I'm only posting this so someone else might be able to give more accurate info. That being said:
If I remember correctly, I've heard someone else had a similar problem, and it had something to do with the TOB. If you get the wrong one (smaller size) it'll lock up on the shaft and the clutch won't work at all. I believe it also requires a new shaft being installed. One of the shops around here did an install for someone and they had brought the parts in. The parts place had given them the wrong TOB and it really caused a mess.
I maybe completely off base but since you still haven't figured it out, I thought I'd throw this in.
i can move the clutch fork with a prybar and it moves freely.......i want to thank everyone for their responces....but i am done........the car is going in the backyard with a car cover on it.......maybe i will get some motivation later....it has me not sleeping and pissedoff at everything.....
I'm only posting this so someone else might be able to give more accurate info. That being said:
If I remember correctly, I've heard someone else had a similar problem, and it had something to do with the TOB. If you get the wrong one (smaller size) it'll lock up on the shaft and the clutch won't work at all. I believe it also requires a new shaft being installed. One of the shops around here did an install for someone and they had brought the parts in. The parts place had given them the wrong TOB and it really caused a mess.
I maybe completely off base but since you still haven't figured it out, I thought I'd throw this in.
Did you have a new or resurfaced flywheel installed at the time of the new tranny? If you did, you may want to verify that the thickness was measured and in spec. I bought a Hayes flywheel for my 85 and it is nearly .100" thinner than a stock replacement. I had to use a .30" shim and also had to fab a new pivot ball to compensate.
.100" may not seem like alot, but it made all of the diff. in the world for mine. I had a very mushy pedal that would not disengage the clutch at all and after the pivot ball and shim, everything was fine.
i am done........the car is going in the backyard with a car cover on it.......maybe i will get some motivation later....it has me not sleeping and pissedoff at everything.....
Sorry to hear that. Maybe you should park it next to mine, they'd have much in common. :cry :banghead:
You might also want to check to see if you need a different size TO bearing. This goes along with the differences in machining mentioned above. The 86 with a Hays FW and PP setup required a longer (~.125") TO bearing to work properly.