It took me about 30 min. to do this like everyone had told me it was simple to do. I only wish the General would have used one universal fastener to attach all the plastic moldings instead of changing 3 times on the same piece of plastic. Once I got the new cluster in and took her out for a test drive everything worked well going up through the higher RPMs, but it seemed that at lower RPMs where I used to be around 1500 RPM I was now reading 2000. :confused: Is there any mechanical reason for this change or is this normal? Thank you in advance for your comments. :chevy


[Modified by 95Redsled, 2:57 PM 5/7/2003]

 

Sory but can`t help you with the problem !!!

:thumbs: you have any pics ?


Good luck .

 

all i know is before i changed it my idle was off by +200 rpm . After i sent it out for the 8k face and recalibration it idles perfect, just as the scanner says. seems after time they make be off somewhat.
:cheers:


[Modified by DieL, 2:45 AM 5/7/2003]

 

Sorry no pictures, as I am currently technology challenged in the hardware dept. Did you want pictures of the install proceedure or of the tach? My winter modification and upgrade $$ went towards the car and not my computer. Now I just need to figure out how to get work to upgrade my computer, because I know they won't pay for mods to my car. :chevy

 

Can you share with us what you did and what everyone told you? :cheers:

 

I started removing the bezel trim pieces on the cluster, it was held in by 4 phillips screws (I was not able to remove this piece until I lowered the steering column). Then I removed the lower pannel from under the dash which is held in by 6 screws (4ea 7mm and 2ea torque-x (#24 I think)on the door side up from the hood release). Once this lower pannel was removed there was a large aluminum cross brace that I needed to remove 2ea 10mm bolts on the drivers door side to be able to acess under the steering column. After I had this piece loosened on one side I could then see the 2ea 15 mm bolts holding the steering column up. At this time I took a pause, because I remembered I didn't disconnect the neg. terminal on the battery. I did this so I wouldn't short anything out and general safety. Then I went back under the dash and took out the 2ea 15mm bolts holding the steering column up. With those 2 bolts removed you can lower the steering wheel enough to remove the bezel trim and acess the gauge cluster to remove the 4 ea 7mm bolts holding in the cluster. I found it necessary to prop-up the steering wheel with a small ball or other object on the seat to prevent the steering wheel from flopping around. With these bolts out the cluster easily unpluged from the dash (note do not remove the smaller 4mm or gold headed phillips screws as they only hold the faceplate on the gauge cluster itself). The new cluster just pluged in and bolted back up in reverse order. I stopped once I had the steering column back up and reconnected the battery cable to make sure it was a good cluster and everything was working prior to reinstalling all of the trim pieces. The only tricky part I encountered is reconnecting the steering column. I was able to do it by myself, but if I were to do it again it would have been nice to have someone else hold up the steering wheel while I reinstalled the 2ea 15mm bolts. I then fired it up and took it for a test drive :steering: I hope this gives you guys a better idea about what it takes to do this. I did not have a manual so there may be a better or more proper way to do this but my way worked. :chevy

 

I put an 8K tach ZR-1 cluster in my 90. I had the same problem, but it was off about 10-15% everywhere. I sent it to SPECMO (near Detroit) for recalibration. Now it's spot-on. Cost me $300, though. They replaced a resistor pack (a resistor array on an IC), put a new plastic lens on, and calibrated it perfectly. It only took 3 days portal-to-portal. It was in the winter, I didn't even need it that fast, that's just how they do it.

:cheers: -Bill


[Modified by ELEVENS, 10:21 PM 5/7/2003]