Bill's response triggered a memory - too bad it wasn't the memory of where I'd left the keys ! !!

I have the build sheet and a lot of other documentation - in the data I have, I see the key-codes, the ones that my local dealer found for me - 2 4-character groups representing the teeth... On the build sheet is a lot, and I mean LOT of info in little groups, and in blocks with no description. Would ANY of these possibly be the VATS resistor value?? :confused:


[Modified by TripleBlack89, 6:18 PM 5/20/2003]

 

I had a non-resistor key made, and it didn't fit the lock. The lock cylinder is a different blank type (A GM "A" key fits it) than the key-code says it is ( They *swear* it's a "C".) I even had the code of the key cut into the "A" blank, just to be sure - it fits in but doesn't turn.

Can I conclude that the lock cylinder has been changed before?? :confused:

 

Referring to Forum topic 215035 (I printed it out; may not be in Archives), these values were different -

There seems to be a wide range of variation...My # 7 key measures 2.20 on my volt/ohm meter...But my local locksmith has a GM Interrogator, and he confirmed it's a # 7 (I ordered two keys from the dealer; he cut them, and they work!)...

 

Your assumption may be correct, someone may have installed a new/different lock set. IF that is the case, you will need to install a new tumbler, thereby assuring you have the correct mechanical key. Have seen locksmiths with about 50 keys just checking each key, but very time consuming. Replacing the tumbler will allow you to proceed to the second problem, the electrical key.

If I were you, I would solve the mechanical key problem first. Get a key that turns the tumbler allowing you to at least move the car out of the garage without power. You will likely have to remove the steering wheel, replace the tumbler, etc. The tools need for this are under $20. Once this is accomplished, you can tackle the second problem, determining the resistance value. The tool Gordon K sells has all 15 values and is around $75. If you can locate a well equipped locksmith, pay him/her and they will run through the values, determine the correct resistance, armed with this knowledge, get another key made complete with pellet, assuming you have the correct mechanical key.

I lost a Corvette key. The couch was hiding the darn thing. Must have set down, key slid out and went into hiding.

Maybe some locksmiths know how to remove Corvette steering wheels.

Let us know if you need more help.

Keep the faith.

dlmeyers 90 coupe zf6 3 speed shocks

 

If GM can tell you what key to cut make one without the pellet then use the vats bypass from mad or you can bypass it yourself. If you don't know how a mechanic should. I carry one of those bypass kits in my car because the vats fail and the car won't start but I could just plug this in and then the key will start it.

 

Take the vin# to a GM dealership and they can make you a key....I did it for $14.00. They have the codes in the computer and make the key right there at the dealerships. You will need proof of who you are and ownership.

 

just happened to me and i had a new key made by borrowing the instrument from my local dealer to read the key resistance. dealer also supplied a blank to use during this procedure. process took about an hour and cost about $35 bucks. good luck

 

To make up vats resistor value 87 vette, what do I use 1/4 or 1/2 watt?

 

Should not make a difference, either will be fine. You need to be concerned with the "tolerance values". Preferred would be 2% I'd think but 5% might do well. You normally need a combination so the final assembled value is your concern. The final assembled value needs to fall between the min/max reference for each key value.

 

I used a potentiometer when I lost my only ignition key a few years back. If you have a multi-meter you can use a $2 pot to duplicate all the possible resistances.

 

What exactly is a potentiometer, and where would I find one. Thanks

 

You didn't mention "losing a key" earlier! If you have your key that works presently there's no need for a potentiometer or anything else other than knowing the VATS resistance value of your key. You could take it by a GM dealer and ask that they "drop it" for resistance value and they'll know what to do. They generally wouldn't charge for that service.

If you have a DMM you can check the resistance yourself and then just get your resistors to match the "key value". You could go by any lock service and have it read also if you've no knowledge of what's involved.

 

Bingo. That is what I did. Hit the right value on the second try.



Does anyone realize that this thread is 11 years old??

 

I did and rather than just "bust on" the new poster I answered what seemed like a very "simple" question:

He never mentioned the loss of a key so there was no need in any mention of anything "other than" just the answer I gave him.

 

To fill in the blank that was never answered previously: there was a recall on the ignition lock cylinder. The new one uses a longer key than the original. I replaced mine after I had VATS problems. One of the contacts inside was bent over and not making a good connection to the VATS resistor pellet.

My recollection is that the new cylinder had silver-plated contacts for the VATS resistor pellet.

One more thing: the "design resistance" listed in WVZR-1's chart are 1% resistor values. It's not necessary to get the exact value, as long as it's within the tolerance. Also, 1/4 watt resistors are fine. They're a little delicate though, so 1/2 watt resistors might be better.

 

Was NOT a "RECALL" only a TSB and it was only performed on cars that displayed issues.



Original TSB was released in May '87 - didn't get much publicity at that time and of course it wasn't an issue for most. As the '86 - '87 aged of course the situation became notably more pronounced due to just normal use. The original TSB explained the difference in keys and also the fact that the "newer" blank would work with earlier cylinders but that "earlier" keys would NOT work with the "newer" cylinders. Dealers with older stock sometimes had issues. The "work key" wasn't an original thought either, that was an after thought.

The most current '88 TSB is here on "RayQuayles" page:

http://www.quayle-co.com/tsbs/88-292.htm