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Hey LD....thats the hard spot eh? Wanna take off the a/c core cover?Not sure if that would even help.Just wanted to post and say lotsa luck and hope you get it.
:)
It's really not too bad to remove half of that damm A/C housing. Plus you'll be able to clean out the rat's nest that's in the evaporator/condenser thing. Mine was half full of pine needles and such.
Hey Larry, you can use a six point ARP 5/16 head bolt. Part # 100-1107 for black oxide and 400-1107 for stainless. No special wrenches needed but still not the easiest job. Good luck! Terry :steering:
i just did it today on my car with headman's and i was able to get to it with a normal 3/8" wrench, about 6" long
Thanks guys I will check it out again tmoorrow with a clear head. I have the 6 point bolts, and I'm pretty sure the socket wont go over the head as it is too close to the header tube. I may have to grind down a socket and make the socket OD smaller I guess. The rest were doable.
Or sounds like removing the AC housing could be one of those maintenance things that have never been done, at least not by me. I may do this any way if it gets junk in it.
I'm sure you realize that a ground down socket may break. I know it will be worth it, if it works. I have seen open end wrenches heated and bent to sharp angles, just for header bolts. You might try what I am planning. Where they will fit, I plan to use the stock or similar manifold bolts. I believe the pass side rear is one position they will. Buy a spacer at the local home center, or hardware store and an appropriate length bolt if the spacer is shorter than stock. The spacer can be ground down for tube clearence, if necessary, but only where it is adjacent to the tube, not the full diameter. The spacer doesn't have to turn, like a socket does. The bolt head should then be out from the header tube/flange junction where it will be much easier to get a 9/16ths socket or wrench on. If you think about it,... it's almost TOO simple. Good luck, and...
I believe the pass side rear is one position they will. Buy a spacer at the local home center, or hardware store and an appropriate length bolt if the spacer is shorter than stock. The spacer can be ground down for tube clearence, if necessary, but only where it is adjacent to the tube, not the full diameter. The spacer doesn't have to turn, like a socket does. The bolt head should then be out from the header tube/flange junction where it will be much easier to get a 9/16ths socket or wrench on. If you think about it,... it's almost TOO simple. Good luck, and...
RACE ON!!!
1984 Crossfire
Member NHRA
[Modified by CFI-EFI, 10:04 AM 5/18/2003]
The spacer idea is indeed,,,,TOO SIMPLE, thanks for the idea!
I found the best way to get to mine was from underneath the car with 1/4" drive socket and ratchet. I was surprised to find that from underneath, you can actually get more turns on the bolt. Good luck.
Get a stubby 7/16" open end wrench from Sears. You can do it from above without removing anything, you just need to keep flipping the wrench since you can only turn the bolt so far until even the stubby wrench hits something. No problem doing it with a thumb and forefinger either, those bolts don't need to be *that* tight.
Case solved,,, I took a large screwdriver and gently pried the buldging area of the header back in flat @ .045" and can now easily get a socket onto the bolt.
I should have checked this before I put it on but now they are all tight.
Just saw your post, that bolt is a bear, same with TPIS LT's. I borrowed a funky snap-on 9/16 dual angle open end wrench. One end has the opening turned 45* the other ~80*. Still took some patience.
The spacer idea is indeed,,,,TOO SIMPLE, thanks for the idea!
I took the hint from the "General". Check out your stock manifolds.
I see where you solved the problem by other means. Great! I "know" to clearence the tubes for the bolts, but I neglected to, before I had them coated. I really don't want to bend or deform anything at this point. Glad you've get it licked.