The service engine light came on in my '85. The printout showed a problem with the EGR system or ECM (?). The EGR solenoid was replaced a couple of months ago. How hard is it to replace the EGR? From the look of where it's at (under the plenum), this could be a rough job. I'm not going to have time to work on the car right now. How much do you guys think it'll cost to have someone else do it? Thanks for your input! :chevy

 

It might just be the diagnostic switch. If it's like an '88 (I'm not sure), it's the switch that is threaded into the EGR tube that runs from the RH exhaust manifold- up over the RH valve cover to the intake. Switch should be open when the EGR is not active --- like when the car is first started or at idle--- and closed (to ground) when EGR is active. Otherwise code 32 will set.

If your problem is indeed the EGR valve itself, replacing it shouldn't be too big a problem. Basically, the plenum needs to be removed. I do my work myself and it's what I'd consider an afternoon job. I'm not sure what a professional would charge, but I'd imagine two or maybe three hours, at most, probably less.

Jason

 

The EGR valve itself is slightly tricky cuz the bolts might be rusted in and a little tuff to get out. I remeber rounding a bolt head. Space was tight in there also. Maybe loosen a runner.
I tried a replacement from Autozone but it was a little different and they include a bunch of washers in there. I don't know what theyre supposed to do. Anyways, with no other changes, installed it and coolant temp shot waaaaayyyy up. Took it off and installed an actual AC Delco unit. All was well after that.

 

Replacing it isnt hard, if you can get under the car. If youve replaced the solenoid/switch, its probably just a clogged up pipe or loss of vacuum somehow. (sometimes, just tightening your gas cap can make it disappear)

But you can ignore it as long as you want, the Code 32 really does nothing to performance. At full throttle, it doesnt feed any gases back into the engine.

I get one on really hot days from time to time, usually after driving on the hwy. I ignore it.

 

The 85 doesnt use the switch the 86 and later cars do,so it wont be on the back of the manifold.(David F. pointed this out to me)
If the egr valve itself is bad,its not a big job to replace it.Id do it for free if you supplied the gaskets and the valve.Im guessing an hour at the most for labor/parts,unless they charge 2 hours.
:)

 

Not sure if the 85 is the same is my 87 but I had an odd thing happen when I got a 32 after some work was done. I had the air tube between the intake and exhaust manifolds off and I removed the temp sensor from it to get it out of the way. When I installed the sensor, I screwed it in a little bit further than it was previously (cause I could I guess :crazy: ) and I got the code 32. Backed it off to where it was and the 32 went away. It turned very easily. Never know....

 

HP, I was getting code 32 also and I discovered I had a disconnected vacuum line at drivers side near the dist. Code went away.. Mayby you'll luck out..... good luck............ :cheers:


[Modified by Mike's 86, 12:38 AM 5/18/2003]

 

There is another post about this recently.

Basic theory is that the ECM monitors a temperature switch on the EGR valve on the 85 (not sure on others). When the ECM signals the EGR valve solenoid, it opens the vacuum and activates the EGR. The sensor then monitors the temperature to verify the hot exhaust gases going thru the valve. The ECM samples the sensor to determine if the system is working.

You can get a code 32 from;

1. electrical system not activating the solenoid
2. vacuum failure or leak
3. bad EGR valve
4. bad sensor
5. electrical system not reporting the condition of the sensor

The ECM also monitors the other way for a stuck EGR valve and looks at the sensor output when the EGR is supposed to be closed.


I just had mine out last week. Not a hard job at all. One tip get a really GOOD #40 Torx bit. Cheap ones will break trying to remove the screws. The bolts holding the EGR in are a bit of a pain. I used a short open end wrench. Couldn't get a socket or box end on them because of their position.

:mad More GM engineering excellence :mad

Regarding the aftermarket EGR. The "washers" that came with the replacement are actually calibrated with different sized openings for different engines. You select the one for your car and then use a center punch to peen a little tab over the washer to hold it in place. I did not like it because it had a different configuration on the sensor mount and the vacuum fitting was a different size that would require some "adapting". Just get the GM part.

I can't believe I am recommending something from GM :lol: