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For a while I've had poor O2 sensor performance, since I put the long tubes in. So I used Flame Red's tech tip for installing a heated O2 sensor to replace a single wire setup. Great tech tip wih part #'s and easy to follow how-to. Long Tube header owners, check it out. I will look at my readings early this week with Tech 1A to see if it helped.
Re: Thanks to Flame Red for O2 sensor tech tip => (Ski2Tee)
another thanx from me too. I tapped power from the windshield wiper motor wires.
Another good thing for ZF6 owners, is to mount the O2 sensor the passenger side collector. Way more room over there.
Re: Thanks to Flame Red for O2 sensor tech tip => (ld85)
I was tied into that wiper motor with my WB circuit for a while, until I mounted a painless wiring 7 fuse block.
The problems and the reason I did not like the wiper motor connection spot was every time I would flip my wipers on the wb would go blank for a while, like the power was cut for a second.
If your looking to connect, or have some things to connect for accesories, the extra fuse block is the right way to do it, and the safest for components.
Heated o2 is the ticket for the headers through :cheers:
From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Re: Thanks to Flame Red for O2 sensor tech tip => (89 Paul in Cal)
another thanx from me too. I tapped power from the windshield wiper motor wires.
Another good thing for ZF6 owners, is to mount the O2 sensor the passenger side collector. Way more room over there.
Good info Thanx :thumbs: I wonder if this will help at all with the CA. smog test. I would think the heated O2 would give a more accurate reading than the non-heated
Re: Thanks to Flame Red for O2 sensor tech tip => (IBEAM700)
Well I just put a 5-AMP fuse in between the sensor and the feed line. Is a 5-AMP fuse too high?
Would the secondary fan relay be a better source for power? And which wire would it be? I dont have the battery hooked up yet and wont start the car till tomorrow.
From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Re: Thanks to Flame Red for O2 sensor tech tip => (ld85)
Well I just tapped into the Red 12V wire on the secondary fan, I assume that it is switched. Am I wrong?
I would think the fan would only get power when it was running. Id have to look at the service manual to find a switched source. Basically you want something thats going to be hot only when the ignition is in the on position.
Dont just tap off anything, you have to run the numbers to make sure the O2 sensor isnt going to pull to much power and blow your fuse.
:cheers:
Re: Thanks to Flame Red for O2 sensor tech tip => (IBEAM700)
I went for the easy and obvious "hot in accy, run, bulb test" and pulled from the radio circuit. I do not currently have the radio installed. If adding the sensor heater to the circuit overcomes the 10amp fuse when the radio installed, well, I'll cross that bridge when and if I come to it. Plus if there is ever a problem with the sensor that causes the fuse to blow, I lose the radio and nothing else critical.
Re: Thanks to Flame Red for O2 sensor tech tip => (IBEAM700)
Per Jeff Kopp, I tied my heated O2 to the Fuel pump relay. If engine is not running then O2 is not on. Working great. :cheers:
:iagree: :thumbs:
The only problem with that is the total current draw is going to be pretty close to the 10AMP circuit max. I going to use a slight modification on that by using the fuel pump relay to trip a relay powered off the power distribution piont behind the battery.
Re: Thanks to Flame Red for O2 sensor tech tip => (Ski2Tee)
What do you mean by poor O2 sensor performance? Where you running lean or rich until the car warmed up? Or was it alway inacurate? How did you determine the o2 was an issue?
Thanks
Hank
Re: Thanks to Flame Red for O2 sensor tech tip => (1MoorTym)
The only problem with that is the total current draw is going to be pretty close to the 10AMP circuit max. I going to use a slight modification on that by using the fuel pump relay to trip a relay powered off the power distribution piont behind the battery.
Just for reference, my two 13190's pull 5.5 amps (combined) at key-on, which quicky drops to under 3 amps after a few seconds. I did it the way you plan, trigger a relay off a keyed circuit and draw power from the distribution point. Also use an in line fuse as close to the power block as possible, match the fuse size to the wire gauge that you are using.