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Let me ask you guys a question. I'm sure that GM dosn't retorque heads after they build the motors when the cars are new so is it really needed?
Because they don't have time to bring them all up to operating temp for a while, shut them down, and then rip off everything you need to again to retorque.
FWIW my 1010 FelPros have not let any bolts come loose (yet) in the 2 pairs I've used.
On your advice I used a set of Felpro 1010s. I just got the car running last weekend, but I haven't retorqued my head bolts yet. Seeing as you have more experience than I do on this, and that you suggested the 1010s to begin with, should I go through the effort of retorquing? It's alot of stuff that has to come off in order to do it (I'm sure I don't have to tell YOU). I'll go through the effort if I have to - I just don't know if it's necessary; I've put some 20 or 30 test miles on the car since I got it running and nothing's happened so far...
You can if you want to for peace of mind, but I'll tell you right now I'm not planning to when I put the engine back together for a THIRD time soon. :)
Hehe... you're 89 has lots more to take off than my 87 does with the different AC compressor. :p: ;)
ID85, i was going to do the same thing for the same reason, but enough people talked me out of using the copper. I hope it works out for you. I came close, but went with a .026 composite instead. Good luck.
Scorp I hear ya I like to do things right myself. I got the felpro 1074 head gaskets. They are made for the 92-96 LT1 and LT4 engines only and are precompressed gaskets thinkness .039". So I should be in good shape.
On your advice I used a set of Felpro 1010s. I just got the car running last weekend, but I haven't retorqued my head bolts yet. Seeing as you have more experience than I do on this, and that you suggested the 1010s to begin with, should I go through the effort of retorquing? It's alot of stuff that has to come off in order to do it (I'm sure I don't have to tell YOU). I'll go through the effort if I have to - I just don't know if it's necessary; I've put some 20 or 30 test miles on the car since I got it running and nothing's happened so far...
Thanks Scorp - for all your help!
My only question to you is - Are they NEY AFR heads. If they are AFR recommends retorqueing and there tech recomends to do so before 250 miles. The effort is minimal if you have to pull the heads and replace the gasket due to walking (head loses contact with gasket). Call AFR and ask them if this happens, I know it does - Everyone told me not to retorque including engine builder, mechanic friend and Felpro. The key is are they NEW, now I had to pull the heads and replace the gasket and I almost have it ready to run.
If only I had re-torqued :banghead: , I probably would not of had to tear the engine down :mad .
On my Darts, after the heat cycle I retorqued and found 3-4 not tight. I did have to remove the headers to get to the lower bolts.
OlRJ, found 3-4 not tight on his re-torque of his AFR's too.
I decided that one more day was not going to kill me and let the car set from 5:00PM till morning and did the deed!
I cant advise someone else on wha tto do, just posting that I found 3-4 loose. The guy that built my short block uses Dart heads weekly on all of his circle track motors and they dont re-torque BUT they dont use copper gaskets either.
What kind of head bolts? ARPs usually don't need re-torque. Doesn't the copper gasket set as fast as the composites? I thought that most newer style gaskets were pre-squashed.
I think it always wise to check bolt torque after reassembling parts-intake, head, rearend, etc...unless you feel lucky! :)
For head gaskets...I'm quite sure the type of gasket matters on whether it needs retorqued. I'm unsure if the type of bolt matters as much as all bolts are designed for a certain amount of stretch to insure preload.
I'm running OEM Impala gaskets on my LT4 and decided not to mess with it. I have run several sets of Fel Pros on my 406 and never retorqued and I can say I recently removed the heads from it-all the bolts were good.
AFR's are completely different castings than OEM Chevy so maybe they don't have the same cycling setup that the factory has...I don't know...real bummer to have to take the engine down no matter what. :(