http://www.efi-tuning.org/forum/inde...4b940dd56bb23d

Sorry for the crosslink but didn't feel like posting everything twice.

 

Those pics look good. Do you have the valve cover issues sorted out yet? :cheers:

 

Good job! :)

Yes, the valve covers probably need a few thousandths ground off of them where the runners are to clear more easily.

Also you may want to move your distributor one tooth counterclockwise and then turn the cap CC to match it. Otherwise the large cap will bang into the plenum making timing adjustments almost impossible. :)

 

:cool: :cheers:

 

I had to ground more than a few thousands off to clear the runners and still haven't ground the inside of the covers to clear the rockers, altho there should be no reason that I have to clear the backside, has anyone else had to do this for roller rockers? I know about the drip pan but these are 1/4 higher with no drip pans, that's why I got them and now I'm grinding anyways.

Didn't think about moving the distributer, I just took off a little of the plastic on the supercoil and it now has plenty of room to move, at least enough to give me a few degrees timing if need be and you really don't notice unless you look closely.


Thanks guys, been working hard on this one. Took me a week and 6 stores for the bolts till I went to a place that sells only bolt, screw, etc.

 

:cheers: :cheers:

 

Any issues with routing the wiring looms on the inside of the runners? (It actually looks pretty cool!)

 

Looks nice!

ralph from the forum here got me to run the harness inside the runner area. It looks MUCH neater that way.

Good luck with it. :cheers:

 

I found it was actually the plastic side peice on the cap where the connectors plug in that gave me trouble. I used to have a supercoil on mine and it cleared ok.

 

It's a tight fit to get the wires there with the plenum on but what isn't on this car :lol:

I like the way it looks, a little cleaner that way but makes hooking up the injectors pretty hard.

 

I seperated my injector wires from the rest of the wires and just ran the injector wires behind the runners. I had a hell of a time attaching the injector connectors to the injectors with the plenum on. You may want to think about connecting those before you put the plenum on.

Good Job :thumbs:

 

Scorp, I see what your talking about on the dist. It won't turn clockwise because of the plastic. Unless I need to adjust the timing I guess I'll leave it for now.

 

Hey dude, how long did it take you from start to finish on this project? I'm getting ready to do one myself, and wanted to know if you have any tips or tricks in doing so. Appreciate your time!

Thanks,
Shayne

 

Couple weeks altho I could only work on it 1-2 hrs at most a day. Run a tap through all the threads on the superram first to clean up the threads. Most suggested slotting the runner-plenum bolts so that you can get the back bolts in from the top with a screw driver, it gets extremely tight on about 3-4 of them, I didn't do that and replaced the 12 point bolts with allen heads ( i was missing some anyway). I had to take off 4 rockers for the bottom runner bolts (I had them off anyway) valve covers must be off and may need to be clearenced to fit back on, found that the bottom bolts had to be put in first and screwed almost all the way in or it was very hard to get them to thread (bottom holes on runners are slots, not holes). I ran all the wires behind the runners , like the look much better and make more room for the valve covers. I put a little gasket sealer on all the gaskets, just enough to make them stick and hopefully seal better. I read somewhere that the throttle bracket needs to be changed but I reusesd mine with no problems, can't remember where i read that. While the runners on on put something over the holes and do not have any bolts near the top of the motor until the lid is on and while the plenum was on i put towel over the holes,you don't want to drop anything down there and seems no matter how carefull you are the runners are like black holes and suck the bolts right down em :lol:

 

Very cool. Sounds awesome. Is yours a 350 or 383? Are you now completely finished with it, and if you are, how much of a difference in power?

 

350, still need to upgrade heads and intake. Still need to clearance the valve covers so havn't finished yet.

 

Sears also has an offset head, 12pt 1/4" ratchet wrench for about $7. I _REALLY_ wish I'd had it for the 4-5 installs I performed. Oh well. It's sitting in my tool box for any future need.

I _did_ take it and test the worst offending bolts and it reached them rather well and had enough 'ratchets' to run the bolts in and out easily. I slotted the inner bolts, and used a shoplight from above, and a magnet from below to get them lined up. (aim for the light, hold in place with finger, start bolt from above)

The back bolts are MUCH easier to get to if the distributor is off.