VATS KEY CODES

http://www.speedscenewiring.com
*IF* what my dealer told me was correct, you *might* be able to go there (with proof of ownership, like a photo-id *and* the car's title) and get the codes for the key-teeth and the VATS value.
I lost the keys to my '89 and went thru a nightmare. They didn't have the VATS Value on file for me - just the codes for the teeth. They charged me five bucks to look up stuff I already knew.
What I had to do was tough - but it worked. I had them cut me a 'regular' NON-VATS key... But it wasn't easy as that. The first NON-VATS key they cut me was for a NON-VATS lock, so they used the wrong blank. There's a "Tech Bulletin" out there somewhere for this - a test-key is 3mm longer than the standard non-VATS key. So after I figured this out, I had a key that turned in the lock, but didn't start the car. Then I went under the dash, found the two thin white (on my '89) wires for the VATS, and disconnected them - there's a convienient plug somewhere near the brake pedal. Using Radio-Shack precision test leads, I clipped into the harness, then put the first one of fifteen different resistors in-line. Each time the car did not start, I waited four to five minutes for the computer to reset itself before trying the next value.
I ordered the resistors from a company called MOUSER Electronics, with shipping and handling it cost less than 8 bucks for them - I specified 1% metal film resistors, and I got 2 of each of 15 values ( at 12 cents each I measured them and took the closest one to the key value.)
This is getting long (and it's not the WHOLE story either), but it's what I went thru to get mine working - and it did work.
I'll list the 15 values in another post.
Good Luck ! !





