Keyless entry for a 92?



I met Gordon Killibrew at CI-IV and he is not fond of the GM model.
Any one have experience with the GM model or know of any other system out there? I'm looking for one that functions with VATS and has the hatch control on the fob.
Thanks
Near the middle/bottom of the thread, should be a link to my post describing one of the systems sold by GM. Bit of work to install, but great quality. No complaints. The way mine is set up, you just have to lock the doors before closing, or the alarm is not set.



Are you using the VKE1000?
I thought about it but I really want to be able to lock the car as I walk away. I'm not sure if the VKE can do that.
If you mean "is there a lock button on the key fob", yes there is. On the '93-96 it's possible to splice into the "arm alarm" wire because the PKE and CCM are two separate modules. (I didn't care to tap it) I haven't studied the pre-93 wiring, but I don't think there is any way to set the pre-93 alarm with the doors closed, regardless of which brand system you choose. You are stuck with the logic that GM built into the CCM.
Well, I guess with some very slick, clever engineering, you could build a logic circuit to get around it (basically fooling the CCM). I wouldn't count on it though :D Maybe I should look into it, seems like something C4 people could use.
Hope that's clear, if not just let me know.



Sounds like I'll have to keep looking. If I understand how the security works on the 92 correctly it triggers the VATS lockout in addition to the horn if the car is opened when the alarm is active. I'd like to keep that feature too.
Don't want much do I? :lol: :lol:
It isn't so much that the VKE1000 isn't able to interface with the car (it's as functional as any keyless entry out there)... it's more like the GM alarm is not conducive to working with external systems/inputs. It was never intended. Aftermarket alarms have there own siren/starter kill, so that's not a problem. So I don't think any keyless entry out there will do what you're looking for, though I'd love to be proven wrong. Only way I see around it is to build a sneaky little circuit like I mentioned.
Also you may be aware of this, but VATS is functional regardless of alarm state.
Anyways, do more research, and if I'm wrong please lemme know so I give more accurate advice.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts



Anyways, do more research, and if I'm wrong please lemme know so I give more accurate advice.
How close are you to the PA border?
Brian
OK, it just occurred to me you are probably using one of those super-simple alarms I'm seen. If I'm right, it's really a separate alarm; doesn't use the starter kill/injector disable that the factory alarm does. Will it actually prevent someone from starting the car?
[Modified by JasonL, 8:37 PM 5/27/2003]
:skep: What brand is it, and did you actually test the alarm?
OK, it just occurred to me you are probably using one of those super-simple alarms I'm seen. If I'm right, it's really a separate alarm; doesn't use the starter kill/injector disable that the factory alarm does. Will it actually prevent someone from starting the car?
I used a BullDog Keyless entry system ... there are no other feature then lock, unlock and trunk (Hatch) unlock. I wired it directly into the factor wiring harness for the lock system ... and I believe I only had to cut one wire, all of the other wires were connected using 3M snap lock connectors. All of the factory alarm/disable features were left intact and unaffected with the installation of this system.
I put this on the car last summer and the system has worked perfectly with only one quirk. If you lock the doors with the switch on the door panel and then pop the hatch it will trip the alarm. However, if you lock the doors with the remote and then pop the hatch the alarm will not trip. If the alarm trips all you have to do it hit the unlock button, just like resetting the alarm with the door key, and the alarm is reset. I never had any VATS or any other issues with this system.
Keep in mind I am only talking about my 92 and also keep in mind the car doesn't know if you unlocked the door with a remote or the door panel switch. All I know is I sure like the remote feature I have with this system.
Hope this helps
Brian
:flag
[Modified by RED92LT1, 11:26 AM 5/28/2003]
1. On the '92, is the sequence for setting the alarm: A. open door B. lock door C. close door?
2. If the alarm were set, and someone reached through the window and hit the interior unlock switch, would the alarm go off? Or if the alarm goes off, can you hit the interior unlock switch to shut it off (no key or remote)?
If I could go out on a limb here, guessing by your hatch comments... I think when you shut the doors first, then use the remote to lock the doors, the alarm is not being set (thus, you can pop the hatch w/o problems). As you mentioned, the car thinks you hit the interior switch, so it thinks someone is inside the vehicle.
Also, since you can turn off the alarm with the your remote... does the Bulldog have an extra wire used specifically for disarming? That would be the only way to differentiate between #2 above, and you holding the remote. Hope that makes sense :crazy:
BTW, you can fix the hatch quirk by shorting the hatch pop wire with the disarm alarm wire, then isolating the two signals with two diodes. Let me know if you want the schematic... it's for my VKE1000, but the basic principle is the same.
Thanks!
1. On the '92, is the sequence for setting the alarm: A. open door B. lock door C. close door?
2. If the alarm were set, and someone reached through the window and hit the interior unlock switch, would the alarm go off? Or if the alarm goes off, can you hit the interior unlock switch to shut it off (no key or remote)?
If I could go out on a limb here, guessing by your hatch comments... I think when you shut the doors first, then use the remote to lock the doors, the alarm is not being set (thus, you can pop the hatch w/o problems). As you mentioned, the car thinks you hit the interior switch, so it thinks someone is inside the vehicle.
Also, since you can turn off the alarm with the your remote... does the Bulldog have an extra wire used specifically for disarming? That would be the only way to differentiate between #2 above, and you holding the remote. Hope that makes sense :crazy:
BTW, you can fix the hatch quirk by shorting the hatch pop wire with the disarm alarm wire, then isolating the two signals with two diodes. Let me know if you want the schematic... it's for my VKE1000, but the basic principle is the same.
Thanks!
To answer your questions:
1. Yes ... The alarm is set when you trigger the lock electrically, not manually, meaning physically sliding the lock tab by hand. You then have a set amount of time to shut the door or the alarm will sound.
2. Yes, if you were to unlock the door by using the interior unlock switch the alarm would go off and hitting the interior unlock switch would not deactivate the alarm. The alarm deactivation happens with a contact to ground by a switch mounted on the key lock mechanism on the inside of each door. The BullDog unit addresses this with a single wire that goes to ground before activating the door unlock servo.
Regarding the hatch setting the alarm off when I lock the doors with the interior lock switch, as opposed to the remote, is the BullDog receiver still thinks it's in the unlock mode from the last time I opened the doors and does not complete the alarm to ground disable sequence to deactivate the alarm, I'll check this out tonight and let you know. But you could be right on your theory.
And yes, if you would send me the schematic for the hatch quirk ... I sure would appreciate it.
Brian



What model Bulldog did you use? Sounds like it might be worth a shot.
From your reply #1 it sounds like you have to trigger the lock function with the door open for the factory alarm to set. Is that correct? Or does it set the factory alarm if you use the remote after the doors are closed?
Thanks
[Modified by Blue 92, 7:50 PM 5/28/2003]
The rest sounds like what I figured for the most part, though I'd be interested if you find out whether the alarm does in fact set when you lock with the remote (and doors are closed).
Anyways, here are the schematics, mostly on page 2. Should turn off the alarm every time you hit the remote's hatch button.
http://mage.wildfyre.com/~jhliao/oth...interface1.jpg http://mage.wildfyre.com/~jhliao/oth...interface2.jpg
:auto:
It appears that the system does not arm when I use the remote lock button. However, if I use the interior door lock switch the system does arm and will disarm when I use the remote unlock button. This is when popping the hatch will trigger the alarm ... but hitting the remote unlock button will clear the alarm. The following are some useful links to the BullDog site including a wiring detail that was very useful when locating the necessary wires and color code.
BullDog KE100 Web Site http://bulldogsecurity.com/keyless.htm
KE100 Install Guide http://bulldogsecurity.com/pdf/KE100_150_1702.pdf
92 Covrette Detail http://bulldogsecurity.com/wires2/sh...Wiring+Details
Brian












