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I am finishing assemblt of my short block and I was wondering what to use for a gasket on the aluminum oil filter adapter and also the oil cooler do they have gasket #s, gm part #s or what? what about the moulded hose that goes to the side of the block from the oil cooler?
There is a part #, but it literally is just a gasket off of another oil filter. I used one from I think a Fram PF45 filter. What do you need to know about the molded hose?
I bought one last weekend from the Chevy dealer part # 14087586 GASKET 793203. They can have it for you same day or next day, cost is $13.38
I tried using the oil filter O-ring and it did not seal well at all. The only leak I had on start up was,,,,, you guessed it, the oil filter O-ring on the Oil Cooler.
May work for some people but it did not work for me.
I just went thru that same thing....ripped one off of my old filters and tried it......leaked real bad....looked to me like it needed to be bigger around,so went to the dealer and ordered one.I brought the oil filter rubber with me to show him that I need it to be bigger around then this.....he said oh yea I know what ya need...well it came in and low and behold it was exactly the same as the one I took off an old filter,so went and got my 15 bucks back and decided to try the oil filter ring again...this time it worked.....trick is dont tighten it so hard.....no leaks the second time around :hurray:
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Re: (gerry85)
I heard a forum member a few weeks ago bought this o-ring gm part. Yeah, the filter ones are smaller in diameter a bit, but it seems you could still make it work if its centered right.
Are you sure the oring is tall enough to form a positive seal? I know the K&Ns have tall orings, the cheaper ones might be flatter.
I'm thinking of maybe tossing the oil cooler. It leaks too, and it's bashed up for some reason, and I think it might be leaking oil into my coolant. I mean, how much could it possible help anyways? The coolant that hits it is coming FROM the engine, and the temperature difference is probably less than 20 degrees to start with... and the surface area has got to be reallly really small to fit in that little oil cooler. I don't see much heat transfer happening there.
And the damn thing costs $160 not including the additional cooling lines & hoses! :cuss
If you guys are talking about that sandwich style cooler that circulates coolant through it most definately eliminate it. They don't do much at all. If anything they warm up your oil faster. If you are going to be driving hard and doing lap days and autocrossing then put in a real oil cooler.
so if I remove the aux cooler I assume that there will be some coolant line changes, or do I just run that line straight into the side of the block? or is there a better way does anyone have any pictures ? Thanks in advance !
i want to make one ( unpopular) point. heating your oil up is not a bad thing ,to a point.. your oil is designed to work in a certain temperature range. your oil doesnt clean and burn off moisture and other contaminants until it is above 200 degrees. however , it will start to cook above 260 degrees. if you run a remote oil cooler( air cooled), it is best to use a thermostatically controlled one.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Re: (neverendingproject)
:lol: I guess if they called it an "oil heater" ordinary people wouldn't buy into it. That finned cooler looks very effective! :yesnod:
Yes, you should plug both coolant lines. The oil "cooler" is very restrictive, and with the hoses bypassing it, it'd decrease coolant flow through the rest of the engine where it matters. One goes straight into the block, and the other weaves up under the AC compressor and TEEs into the 3/4" heater line off the waterpump.