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The back up lights aren't coming on when in reverse in my 94 ZF6 coupe. I took a meter to the backup lights themselves, no voltage when tranny in reverse. I took a meter to the connector that goes to the backup light switch on the side of the tranny; I got 12 volts no matter if in neutral or reverse. So I'm guessing the backup switch is bad. I already bought one from Jeff Kopp ($57!!!).
Here's the problem- I CAN'T remove the switch! I'm not able to get a wrench on it; it's buried too deep. I tried a regular ratchet, swivel ratchet, conventional wrench, offset wrench, and GearRatchet. I'm out of tools! In the shop manual they describe it as an on-car swap, but I can't imagine how they decided that! Any tips from someone who's ever removed one of these switches is greatly appreciated!
The car goes back on the road today, and I have to get it inspected. I'm hoping that this one fella I "sorta" know won't worry about the reverse lights. However, I want to get it swapped soon anyways. Man, am I praying it passes!
It's just as hard on 4+3's. I had my brother machine a 7/8 socket OD for .015 wall between the hex peaks and the OD (make sure you use a 4 jaw chuck and center on the hex flats, NOT the OD). This socket will just fit and remove the backup switch. I tried a 7/8 crowfoot and it just cammed itself off the switch, that's when I had my brother machine a socket for me.
Hmm...not a bad idea! Maybe I'll buy a cheap socket today, and try machining it down some in my lathe! I suppose I better anneal (i think thats the one) it first to remove the heat treatment. I'll let you folks know how I make out. My other idea was to get a cheap wrench and bend it to suit. We'll see!
Well, I went to have the car inspected today. I notice three guys hovering around my car right after I pull it in. One of them comes up to me, laughing "HAHA!! You failed before you even started!" Oh, he was REAL proud of himself. f-ing reverse lights..... :mad
And today I finally was able to remove the switch by using a 22MM offset wrench and bending the clutch line slightly. Sure enough, the switch was the problem. Very wierd however; I tested both switches for continuity when closed, and they both passed no problem. I also measured resistance when closed with both switches, and got .2 Ohms, which is pretty standard on my meter for a dead short. So... was the original switch truly bad?? I will never know- there's no way in hell I'm doing that one again!!!!